105 restoration

steved · #1 11-25-2014, 01:55 PM

I spent most of the weekend in the paint shop and painted about 90% of the parts. A few parts need some touching up but I'm happy but tired! I've been trying to watch videos and read the post here but I still have some questions. On the rear end, I figured I would replace the cork seal between the pump and rear end. I'm picking up that this is a common place to leak and since I have it this far apart it would be smart to do it. How far should I take the engine down? Pull the head, inspect and replace the gasket? I didn't realize it at the time, but the bolts I removed that held the heat shield down are also some of the head bolts? Since they need to be re-torqued should I not pull it and replace bolts and gasket? Also, should I remove some of the sheet metal to repaint or spray as is? Thanks for your patience and help!

olds45512 · #2 11-25-2014, 02:24 PM

Go ahead and pull the head, clean the carbon off the top of the piston and head and also check the head for straightness. I'd pull all the tins off the engine and clean good around the fins on the block, once all the pieces are prepped and ready to paint you can either paint them individually or bolt it all together and paint.

J-Mech · #3 11-25-2014, 03:19 PM

Don't paint the cylinder head though.

I would also suggest not painting the hydro. It's aluminum and really doesn't need paint. Also, cools better if it's not.

olds45512 · #4 11-25-2014, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Don't paint the cylinder head though.

I would also suggest not painting the hydro. It's aluminum and really doesn't need paint. Also, cools better if it's not.

As Jon said don't paint the head, I always paint my engine together so any paint getting on the head is minimal.

TheSaturnV · #5 11-25-2014, 04:08 PM

Ditto on what the guys are saying.

As J-M says, don't paint the hydro pump fins, although I did hit them lightly with clear lacquer spray.

On the Kohler, I left the head in aluminum for cooling, and used black BBQ paint for the fins on the block. I painted the cooling shroud separately. Since aluminum doesn't hold paint very well, I left the cam cover bare and hit it with clear lacquer. I also decided to do the oil breather cover the same way, since it takes so much heat, fuel and oil abuse.

ford4150 · #6 11-25-2014, 04:15 PM

I was also cautioned not to paint the differential vent. Don't know if it came from this board or not.

TheSaturnV · #7 11-25-2014, 04:32 PM

Excellent point. It's a little round brass screen. Give it a scrub with a stiff toothbrush and tape it off. It's in this area:

drglinski · #8 11-25-2014, 05:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheSaturnV

Ditto on what the guys are saying.

As J-M says, don't paint the hydro pump fins, although I did hit them lightly with clear lacquer spray.

On the Kohler, I left the head in aluminum for cooling, and used black BBQ paint for the fins on the block. I painted the cooling shroud separately. Since aluminum doesn't hold paint very well, I left the cam cover bare and hit it with clear lacquer. I also decided to do the oil breather cover the same way, since it takes so much heat, fuel and oil abuse.

You can't see it when it's assembled anyway....(hydro pump fins)

steved · #9 11-26-2014, 06:52 AM

Thanks guys for the tips. I definitely did not know about the breather screen. I'm going to start on it this afternoon. I'll post pictures when I get the head off.

mickb72 · #10 11-26-2014, 07:17 AM

Hello, i just redid a head gasket on an old 10hp out of my 100 that i new was leaking. It had the heat shield and gas tank bracket bolted down with the head bolts,which i thought was strange. I guess that's the way they were. Guess what i found under there, a lp head #235461. Bingo! Mike