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#1
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Hey gang, i replaced my throttle cable tonight and got her running again then noticed my drive shaft was crooked and the engine was vibrating like crazy. Upon further review i found that i am missing 3 of the 4 engine bolts the secure the motor to the frame. Could you guys tell me what size, length, grade, etc that i need to buy from my local hardware store to replace them? Also how did you all get them tightened up because i had a ALOT of difficulty last year getting a socket or wrench in that tight area when i tried tightening up one of the front motor mounts.
Its an 1810 with the kohler magnum 18 motor if that is needed. |
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#2
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First, welcome to OCC.
You can find all the parts you want by going to the Cub Cadet Parts Lookup Site..... Parts lookup Select Cub Cadet as the brand and then type in your tractor model. There are six (6) bolts that secure the Engine Mounting plate to the frame. They are (710-0514) 3/8-16 x 1.00" Grade 5 Bolts. There are four (4) bolts that secure the Engine to the Mounting Plate. They are (710-0520) 3/8-16 x 1.50" Grade 5 Bolts.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#3
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Thank you sir. Tried using the link you gave me. Guess I need to practice a bit because I couldn't find the right place to go. Still very useful page to have. Any harm in getting some bolts at a hardware store instead of ordering from CC? Probably a fraction of the cost I'm guessing. Also any suggestions or tricks on how to get in there and install? Apparently I need to disassemble a bit becauae looks impossible without doing so. Also I read a page on here that referenced shims. Care to explain those because I'm willing to bet if they are needed mine have vibrated off into the yard somewhere.
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#4
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I would buy the bolts locally.
It is going to be difficult without lifting the engine. I am NOT clear on what bolts are missing, but if it they are the ones (4) that bolt the Engine down to the mounting plate, you will need the appropriate 950-3009 Mounting Spacers.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#5
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I will have to look as I'm not real famiar with what's going on but it looked like the 4 bolts holding the engine to the frame/plate. No idea if spacers are there or what they look like but I break her down this weekend and report back for more help if needed. Is there an "aftermarket option" per say on the spacers? Are they rubber or metal? Can a guy use washers or something? Just trying to get as much info as possible Thnx guys.
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#6
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The spacers are unique to Cub Cadet. They are .469" tall.
If you are not worried about accuracy, you can come up with something close. See this thread and how I did it..... Engine Mount
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
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#7
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Thanks for that read! I went to hardware store and bought grade 8 bolts and nuts for the job and also picked up some 3/8 washers in the size of the spacer as well as some 3/8 fender washers that are 1.5 inches around. I plan on using one of the two set ups stacked to the proper height. This old girl is a work horse and not a show machine so it should work out ok. Besides, anything has to be better than the one bolt I have now and the engine vibrating out from under the hood! :-)
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#8
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I had a spacer missing on an 1811 and stacked up washers also. I stacked them on a bolt so they would be lined up and wrapped electrical tape around them to hold them together.
I went thru a bunch of washers i had and they were all different thickness , so after awhile i came up with a match to the spacer height using my micrometer. |
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#9
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I had a similar problem on my 1872. I found that when I used flat washers and lockwashers under the actual CC bolt, that the bolt was too short and would not extend past the end of the nut when fully tightened. I went to the hardware store and got bolts 1/4" longer in this case.
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1989 - Cub Cadet 1772 1987 - Cub Cadet 1572 w/Rear PTO & Cat. 0 38" Lawn Sweeper #196483 42" L42 (Bush Hog) Rotary Cutter # 190349 45" 2-Stage Snowblower # 196364 48" Haban Rotortiller Rear PTO Driven #190356 54" SnowBlade with hydraulic Angle #196376 60" Haban Mowing Deck #196374 |
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#10
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I bought some lock washers also to use. Not sure I can make it work though because I think mine has the nut on top by the mounting flange and it's tight in there. I looked for lock nuts but they didn't have any except grade 2 so I passed. I'm going to use some red locktight this time for sure. I might go back and grab some 1/4" longer bolts since you mentioned just in case I need them. I'll report back soon.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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