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#1
12-24-2013, 04:01 PM
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My 86 is dead......
ok guys....as of recently my 86 died on me...im sick of working on it and going 3 steps forward and 6 back.
I recently put new points on it (about 2 weeks ago) and after fooling around with them to get it to start she ran great but wouldnt go over half throttle, so i had a brand new carb and stuck it on there and she reved all the way up no problem but spitted WOT. Well today i went to go cut a tree in the yard and hauling a small trailer behind it she didnt want to pull a hill at all. Im starting to wonder whats going on now... 1. replaced the points again 2. replaced the S/G (better safe than sorry) 3. replaced the carb. 4. replaced the battery (3 times now) Ive adjusted the points alot and back fires hard threw the carb but only when you pull the choke on or have it on idle. Reset the carb back to stock settings so i can elimate problems there. charged the battery so i know its hot and ready Now its in the shop tore down to just a block in the frame (kind of), i pulled the head off to see if it the exhaust valve is opening with the ACR (its not) so i adjusted the exhaust valve to compensate for that since the PO had it like that and now its worse....  Any ideas? heard it might be the mechanical timing but i doubt it. Could the ACR be shot? If the ACR is shot will another cam from another motor work or no? I believe my motor is a 14HP by the bore and stroke (have had it down before for oil pan issues) i have a 12HP that has a broke piston but cam is good...I really need help with this guys...my 86 is the work horse here and NEED her by spring cuz i have alot of jobs lined up....really dont want to use my 1650 for plowing and blading since i mow with it and hate pulling the mule drive and deck out from under it.
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Brandon CC models: 86, 1650, 100 w/hanban sickle mower & 1872 1972 86 w/12" brinly plow & 65lb wheel weights & 42" grader blade 1978 1650 Hydrostat w/44" mower & 42" IH push blade 1965 100 w/hanban sickle mower 1989CCC 1872 w/50c mower 
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#2
12-24-2013, 04:18 PM
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
 Sounds to me, you you could have a Carb adjustment issue (since you say it is new), condenser, or timing.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#3
12-24-2013, 04:19 PM
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It honestly sounds like the points still need to be set. I wonder, how did you set them? I've been down that road, and setting them just enough to get it to run isn't enough. Long story short (and other people here can explain it better than I can), you need to set your points (gap them) at the right time in your motors revolutions, otherwise it'll sputter and spit and do all kinds of weird things that make you think it's the carb or something else.
Bottom line: get your manual from our technical section and read up on how to set your points properly 
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-Ryan
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#4
12-24-2013, 04:43 PM
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R Bedell it wasnt in any of the first 4. and i know it had a 8hp factory, had a 10 when i got it and i put the 14 in it cuz the 10 slung the rod. i tried starting factory on the carb settings and it still popped back hard, new condensor as well even new coil. im just stumped
jimbob...ill try it again but if the points get moved a little bit it stops firing all together but ill dig some...its just made me sick dealing with it for 2 weeks now
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Brandon CC models: 86, 1650, 100 w/hanban sickle mower & 1872 1972 86 w/12" brinly plow & 65lb wheel weights & 42" grader blade 1978 1650 Hydrostat w/44" mower & 42" IH push blade 1965 100 w/hanban sickle mower 1989CCC 1872 w/50c mower
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#5
12-24-2013, 04:55 PM
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Please forgive me for my ignorance, but what about the points plunger? If that were to operate tightly, would that be a consideration? I would tell you to get the thickest set of ear muffs you could find which would take care and fix any noises, but now I'm stumped as well
 !{just kidding, of course!}
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES
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#6
12-24-2013, 05:07 PM
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If they are new points you may want to consider filing them. Every new set of points I have bought the last few years required a filing to get the tractor to run right. Points plunger is also something to check.
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Wendy Oaks IH Cub Cadets, Springville, IA.
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#7
12-24-2013, 05:08 PM
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a 12hp cam will work in a 14.
How did you reset the acr?
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile!
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#8
12-24-2013, 05:24 PM
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Three things....
(A) Set the Carb to the settings as stated in the Manual. (B) With a VOM (or DVM) make sure there is zero ohms resistance between the Condenser case and the battery negative terminal. (C) Try setting the "point gap" at .018, 016, etc until you find a good running motor.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#9
12-24-2013, 06:44 PM
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I agree with Roland. I seriously doubt the ACR is bad. Adjust the valves to the specified setting. You can just barely see the exhaust valve open, as the piston rolls up to TDC.
This thread goes through how to properly set the points..... http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=28271 Also, I might add, that setting the carb to "factory" settings is just a starting point. It has to be adjusted or "fine tuned" from there. It IS NOT a "set it and leave it" setting. While you are going through all that, might as well set/adjust the governor too since you have had the carb off. Anytime you remove and install the carb, you should adjust the governor. Here is the link to the Kohler manual for that engine. Please download and read through it. If you still have questions, come back and we'll see if we can answer them.
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#10
12-24-2013, 07:09 PM
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If the tractor is backfiring through the carb, I would suspect a timing issue (sparking when the intake valve is still open) or the intake valve is not closing fully, allowing combustion back through the intake path.
Take the valve cover off (rectangular cover next to the carb) and watch the valve stems operate while you crank over the engine. Pay attention to be sure the intake valve (on the right) closes everytime. When the valve is closed, there should be a slight clearance between the pushrod and the valve stem--check with a feeler gauge. I think it's supposed to be about .018. Check the manual. If the intake valve closes fully, then it's time to statically time the engine. Look in the tech section for instructions on how to do this. http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4405 If it runs at all, it's probably not coil, condenser, grounds, etc. Adjusting the carb from factory settings will improve operation, and, assuming it's clean and working correctly, it should run without backfiring at the factory settings. So that points back to timing and valve adjustment.
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