I think I have a serious hydro problem w/ 1450

[teejk]

Originally Posted by ol'George

yep, but it will snap them quicker!!! Ha,LOL!

I did treat them heavily with Liquid Wrench and also continued MAPP gas over a few days, then the hand-impact. Got 2 of 8 that way. Figured that a drill/cut/grind was coming anyway, decided to give the air-impact a chance (safety glasses of course but one of the few advantages of getting old...I now need mag glasses for close work and they are shatter-proof lenses).

I'll finish by saying that the Liquid wrench didn't get anywhere near the frame nuts but rather pooled between the diamond plate and the fender plate recess (more to clean now). Maybe the heat did something...will never know. I was expecting the worst since I only had the #3 bit that came with the cheap hand driver and I only gave it a quick shot.

It was free and out before I could see what happened. Tried a few more and same result. 3/8" extension gave me access to the ones behind the brake pedal on the left and lift rod on the right.

[cubfixer]

Great results! Good to hear about your progress!

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by teejk

I did treat them heavily with Liquid Wrench and also continued MAPP gas over a few days, then the hand-impact. Got 2 of 8 that way. . . Maybe the heat did something...will never know. I was expecting the worst since I only had the #3 bit that came with the cheap hand driver and I only gave it a quick shot.

It was free and out before I could see what happened. Tried a few more and same result. 3/8" extension gave me access to the ones behind the brake pedal on the left and lift rod on the right.

teejk: We've all been there. I wound up cutting the heads off the bolts and using Vise-grips and PB Blaster and was ridiculed for doing so (but not on this forum). The next time, I'm still going to use my brand of "Liquid Wrench" (great name, so-so product, in my opinion), heat (lots of it) and an air impact tool. The heat really seems to help, even if it's only propane, and the air impact beats the hand impact (I think) because it doesn't tear up the bits so badly, and it works so fast (I hope!)

Anyway, other, more experienced Cub Fixers tell me that they don't spend 1/2 a day per bolt, so I don't feel I should either; I just need to update my methods from what I used to do when I was twelve years old putzing around in the basement shop.

But no matter how you do it, there is nothing like the satisfaction of getting a rusty bolt out; and likewise, nothing compares to the disappointment of breaking one in the process. BTDT.

I'm happy it worked out for you!

Jeremiah

[ACecil]

Originally Posted by cubfixer

Great results! Good to hear about your progress!

Same here!

[teejk]

Originally Posted by ol'George

Remembering there are 2 small "L" type brackets farther up to remove bolts from attaching it to the frame,-- also again self explanitory.
I see nothing wrong with waiting till spring.
That is your call,sometimes it is better to "plan breakdowns" if there is such a thing.
I understand the age thing only to well!!

tomorrow starts the journey into the unknown (for me that is). It's in the heated part of my shop so that's good (my 1965 JD 2020 restore project will be in the cold part if I can figure out how to get it in there but that's a different forum).

not finding much on the rear-end removal other than that seems to be the best way rather than trying to change the gasket it in-place (that HyTran stuff is expensive).

thinking about jacking/blocking the frame slightly higher than where it sits to ease removal. I already did a walk around and see a few holes where I would expect to find bolts if everything is supposed to be the same on both sides (e.g. 2 bolts on the rear "axle to frame" on one side, only one on the other side. moving to the front I have a bolt on the left side but none on the right). Is this how CC tried to balance their drive-trains?

wish me luck! I will be taking careful notes on the process.

[teejk]

Originally Posted by teejk

tomorrow starts the journey into the unknown (for me that is). It's in the heated part of my shop so that's good (my 1965 JD 2020 restore project will be in the cold part if I can figure out how to get it in there but that's a different forum).

not finding much on the rear-end removal other than that seems to be the best way rather than trying to change the gasket it in-place (that HyTran stuff is expensive).

thinking about jacking/blocking the frame slightly higher than where it sits to ease removal. I already did a walk around and see a few holes where I would expect to find bolts if everything is supposed to be the same on both sides (e.g. 2 bolts on the rear "axle to frame" on one side, only one on the other side. moving to the front I have a bolt on the left side but none on the right). Is this how CC tried to balance their drive-trains?

wish me luck! I will be taking careful notes on the process.

ok then...blocked up, brake rods removed (they needed a good wire brushing anyway), rear donut freed, the "fork" linkage from the hydro is free (but "dangling" so I'll secure that to avoid damage).

so now onto the main linkage...what's the best way to disengage that thing? both ends have the infamous "Cub Knuckle" both secured with nylon stop nuts that are tough to get at.

and then it dawned on me...pulling the rear-end out will likely lead to a crash that will likely hit the filter (I work alone and don't have an engine hoist).

any hints?

[ajcombs]

I've done this way too many times alone but i lift the tractor up off the rear tires with straps too the ceiling of my shop then i use my floor jack to hold the rear up so i can have enough clearance to lower the pump under the battery tray. If you take the tires off you don't have to lift the tractor as high if that matters to ya. If you need more clearance you can use ratchet straps and lift the tractor up as needed. Good luck.

[teejk]

Originally Posted by ajcombs

I've done this way too many times alone but i lift the tractor up off the rear tires with straps too the ceiling of my shop then i use my floor jack to hold the rear up so i can have enough clearance to lower the pump under the battery tray. If you take the tires off you don't have to lift the tractor as high if that matters to ya. If you need more clearance you can use ratchet straps and lift the tractor up as needed. Good luck.

thanks AJ...I already removed the rear-fender clip (it needs a good scrubbing and paint anyway...it's "final journey" I think but the metal looks great, it's 37 years old and if I can get another 37 years, it will outlast me by several years).

so it should be somewhat of a straight back shot on the rear-end once I can figure out the best way to disconnect the hydro linkage and remove the frame bolts (2 of which are gone that I never noticed until now).

I'm working without a manual so figure I have to rely on common sense (meaning I can flip a coin). My drive shaft is still connected until I pull the rear-end (roll-pins are stuck and will better withstand the beating if they are on a bench). Given that, I'm thinking about removing the rear frame bolts first, then supporting the pump end with a home-made sling before I pull out the front bolts and slide the whole unit out.

like I said, coin-flip. It's ready to go as soon as I can figure out that linkage rod.

[teejk]

ok...had a few delays (xmas parties, GB Packers, snow, etc.).

anybody attempting this should not walk past the ratcheting box wrenches in the hardware store (1/2 and 9/16ths). mine was missing the rear bolt on the right side but the front bolt on that side was LONG, to the point where the ratchet would not clear the brake caliper.

I had blocked the frame a bit higher than the rear-end (tires could spin). I pulled the bolt on the angle iron right side (the bolt on the angle iron left side was MIA)...

then I removed the left side bolts on the pumpkin. as noted above, the rear right side bolt on the pumpkin was MIA also but that long bolt on the right was a little chore until I set the jack under the left side to let the bolt come out straight.

the angle irons attached to the rear-end let me pull the rear-end out a lot before support was needed (more than enough to free the drive shaft).

being a good german, I had a few pieces of packing foam "pillows". stuck them under the front end of the transmission and rolled the rear-end out of the frame but not resting on the filter.

more to do since it is a "mess". into town tomorrow for engine cleaner.

[teejk]

looking at the parts look-up I see a number of gaskets for a 1450 (didn't see 1250 but assume they are the same).

rear-end is out and in the process of being cleaned (wish I would have done this before I stored the water hose and pressure washer).

where is the likely source of a leak?