I think I have a serious hydro problem w/ 1450
 

:bash2:

Most will remember, I had the slow down uphill problem. I found a thread here that said everything needed to be tight. Using shims and wave washers, (shown in a different thread), I tightened everything up. Last weekend mowing was like I had a different tractor, except when I was done, I had very little reverse. I had to re-adjust neutral. I have some slop in the shifter linkage behind the dash, (shifter moves the entire neutral gate, that's also another thread that I haven't gotten answers on). This last mowing, the slow down uphill problem is back. I just checked the hydro fluid, I could touch it with my pinky, but topped it off. I removed the inspection cover and everything is still tight on the hydro. I was able to push the 1450 with the hydro in neutral and the release lever in drive. I shouldn't be able to do this should I? Both pins in relief valves are up and the valves don't leak. What in the world is going on with her?

No, you shouldn't be able to do that. Do the pins in your hydro move up and down freely? If they are stuck, soak them in PB Blaster and try to free them up.

Cub Cadet 123

In the second picture, I see a pile of wavy washers where there should be no washers at all. Only shim pivot pins, not the pins that go into a slot, which it looks like you've done.

I had my 1650 die in the neighbors yard and had to push her back to the shed one day. The tunnel cover was off and I couldn't find it to use the lever to push the relief down on the valves so she would go in neutral. I took a rock and banged them down out of frustration and got her to roll. Ever since then I had no power in forward or reverse and the little nipples would not come back up all the way.

I took her to Conner in Cambridge City and said I will give you an extra 1200 to take this old rusty 1450 and my 1650 and make one good tractor to till with. He quickly started her up and swapped the valves on the 1450 with the 1650. The valves on the 1450 were self relieving. Once this happened I spun the tires in the gravel in forward and reverse!

Those valves need to work and work well. Even if the little nipple thing move up and down they need full travel I assume. I like the self relieving ones so much better.

I don't know if the 1200 was worth all that :)

You might see how old your filter is. I have had a hydro that would barely pull itself, and you would have to push on the tractor to get it moving. Changed the filter, and it had plenty of power and was very strong. :beerchug:

Trust me, Joe..It WAS worth it!! :beerchug:

Got to look at the relief valves last nite. Engine off, I can push the pins down with my little finger. As I remember, I had a very hard time pushing them down on the oild valves and the were leaking on top.

The plunger on the Manual Relief Valves has to, and needs to move "FREELY".

If you don't get enough oil to the Charge Pump because the Hydro Filter is partially plugged up, that needs to be replaced.

:IH Trusted Hand:

Roland...my 1250 has been leaking more and more and reverse has been "iffy".

I pulled the rear clip and pulled the valves (after a very thorough scrubbing with solvent and air). The valves look brand new (38 years but I've been religious on filter/fluid maintenance although it was used and "rode hard/put away wet" when I got it).

Is there a "visual check" on the valves or can they simply wear out? They are the "button" type. The fins on the pump housing were a mess so it's hard to tell where the leak is coming from. I've long suspected it was the "L" tube from the pump to the pumpkin so any suggestions on what to do as long as it's apart?

ok then...no replies on my previous post (I thought I would append an old similar post rather than open a new one).

The valves look clean and seem to operate as designed. The o-rings and plastic washer look ok as well.

Do they wear out such that a visual inspection is worthless?

I can't find the source of the leak but I suspect there is a gasket between the pump and the rear-end. The "L tube" is snugged tight.

It's a 1250 with a 2050063 SN and I think was one of the first in the QL series.