I think I have a serious hydro problem w/ 1450

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by teejk

ok then...no replies on my previous post (I thought I would append an old similar post rather than open a new one).

The valves look clean and seem to operate as designed. The o-rings and plastic washer look ok as well.

Do they wear out such that a visual inspection is worthless?

I can't find the source of the leak but I suspect there is a gasket between the pump and the rear-end. The "L tube" is snugged tight.

It's a 1250 with a 2050063 SN and I think was one of the first in the QL series.

The valves have little "O" rings that seal the plungers that move up/down, they wear out/become brittle, you can't see them, I'm sure somebody will post a cutaway.
The nylon rings and "O" rings you can see where they screw in, seldom give problems.
There is a cork gaskett where the hydro and rear end meet, they all leak after 30 years, it is just a matter of when.
It's not too hard to fix, we have all been there.
You have some choices as far as replacing the valves if leaking/bad.
Buy from cub cadet, pay with first born, right arm, and left testicle.
Or go with a guy who rebuilds on evilpay, or buy from LJ fluid power.(better choices)
I don't like to chance used ones as my luck they would be leakers.

[teejk]

Originally Posted by ol'George

The valves have little "O" rings that seal the plungers that move up/down, they wear out/become brittle, you can't see them, I'm sure somebody will post a cutaway.
The nylon rings and "O" rings you can see where they screw in, seldom give problems.
There is a cork gaskett where the hydro and rear end meet, they all leak after 30 years, it is just a matter of when.
It's not too hard to fix, we have all been there.
You have some choices as far as replacing the valves if leaking/bad.
Buy from cub cadet, pay with first born, right arm, and left testicle.
Or go with a guy who rebuilds on evilpay, or buy from LJ fluid power.(better choices)
I don't like to chance used ones as my luck they would be leakers.

thanks for the information (and the laugh so "double thanks" on that part...we do seem to have some "tudes" here but that's like any other board I visit...water off a duck's back).

I have never inspected the rear-end "guts" in the 30 years I have owned my baby (my wife keeps telling me to dump it and buy one of those cheap green things from the Home Depot...luckily I have selective hearing). I did change out the engine years ago to a 16HP K341 (my "baby" was abused when I got it). At that time I knew the fan blade had long gone to nubs but I ignored it.

Now that I got the rear clip off and start looking around, it was beyond filthy...perhaps a function of no fan. I'll replace that as long as I can see it since the rear donut ain't looking so good either.

So now to that gasket thing. I have the stock single port 1250 Cub. What's involved?

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by teejk

thanks for the information (and the laugh so "double thanks" on that part...we do seem to have some "tudes" here but that's like any other board I visit...water off a duck's back).

I have never inspected the rear-end "guts" in the 30 years I have owned my baby (my wife keeps telling me to dump it and buy one of those cheap green things from the Home Depot...luckily I have selective hearing). I did change out the engine years ago to a 16HP K341 (my "baby" was abused when I got it). At that time I knew the fan blade had long gone to nubs but I ignored it.

Now that I got the rear clip off and start looking around, it was beyond filthy...perhaps a function of no fan. I'll replace that as long as I can see it since the rear donut ain't looking so good either.

So now to that gasket thing. I have the stock single port 1250 Cub. What's involved?

There are a lot of write ups here on it, but to generalize: on my 782, I pulled the fender assy. to give access, blocked the frame up and unbolted/removed involved linkage and slid the complete rear out, turned it upright so no fluid would get out and separated the hydro from the diff housing, where "corky the leaker" lives. it ain't rocket science. Like I said do a search here it is a common thing.
Make sure you replace the fan while you have the shaft disconnected and made double sure it is placed/set properly/fore/aft.
As some models are a close fit and when the deck lift is actuated it peels off the new blades quicker than the numbers roll on today’s gas pump.
(With the same pit of the stomach feeling)

[teejk]

Thanks...I guess I understand the process and seems it's only a matter of 2 bolts on each side holding the rear-end to the chasis rails, disconnecting the brake rods, hydro lever, drive shaft and clearing the + cable.

debating putting the whole thing back together and keep "topping off" the fluid until I can get the hose and pressure washer back out in the spring (it gets cold here). As long as it's torn apart it's a good opportunity to give it a long over-due bath and paint. Given it's age (and mine) this will be the "final" such thing.

[ol'George]

Remembering there are 2 small "L" type brackets farther up to remove bolts from attaching it to the frame,-- also again self explanitory.
I see nothing wrong with waiting till spring.
That is your call,sometimes it is better to "plan breakdowns" if there is such a thing.
I understand the age thing only to well!!

[teejk]

thanks again...still debating! think I'll forego the machine for plowing this year, get the gasket fixed, then pull the rear-clip again in the spring to do some cosmetic cleaning/painting. All the rear-clip stuff is now freed up and should only take a few minutes to remove if I use anti-sieze on the threads. btw that 1/2" air impact driver popped those footpad screws in a second.

[ol'George]

Originally Posted by teejk

thanks again...still debating! think I'll forego the machine for plowing this year, get the gasket fixed, then pull the rear-clip again in the spring to do some cosmetic cleaning/painting. All the rear-clip stuff is now freed up and should only take a few minutes to remove if I use anti-sieze on the threads. btw that 1/2" air impact driver popped those footpad screws in a second.

yep, but it will snap them quicker!!! Ha,LOL!

[Matt G.]

To help insure that the new gasket seals properly and doesn't leak, make sure both mating surfaces are surgically clean, and put the sticky side of the cork gasket on the pump. I've yet to have one leak after doing it that way.

[cubfixer]

I am so glad that I have two gear-drive cubs. I spend much time in the "reading room" looking over the hydro section of the repair manual, and I have been trying to understand it for a year now. Good luck to all hydro drivers!

[Donovan M.]

Every hydro has its ups and downs. I like the quiet lines.