Picked up an 1811/Problems/Introduction thread

[Jwrandolph]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

You don't have to shut the switch off to re-engage the PTO. That part is fine.

The hold in relay is not holding. Could be (but not limited to):
Wiring
Bad switch
Bad connection
Too wide air gap on the PTO (this one is a stretch)
Poor connection at the ignition switch

You are just going to have to check all the electrical connections and find the issue. Best time to do it is when it acts up. Just one of those PITA electrical gremlin's that may not be easy to find.

The PO said that he replaced the PTO switch, so my guess is that it was giving him the same problems, and did not check the wiring. The wiring has been messed with because it has crappy connectors in random spots, the connectors are crimp style (I prefer to solder and shrink wrap all electrical connections). I am going to open the manuals that BIGMOZEKE sent me and see if there is an electrical wiring diagram, and just re-wire the whole PTO system instead of trying to play a guessing game on the wiring. Sometimes it just seems easier to go that route. I really think something is shorting out mainly going downhill because it is usually when I hit a bump. I go up the same hill and she runs like a champ.

[john hall]

If it only happens when you hit a bump, well that makes me think the seat switch is real sensitive or out of adjustment. The one on my 2072 is aggravating like that.

[Jwrandolph]

Originally Posted by john hall

If it only happens when you hit a bump, well that makes me think the seat switch is real sensitive or out of adjustment. The one on my 2072 is aggravating like that.

That has been taken out of the wiring loop. The PO took the reverse and seat disconnect switches out of the circuit. I really think it is wiring because like I said, none of the wiring or connectors are quality work.

[aagitch]

Right when you mentioned hitting bumps, I immediately thought that it has to be a bad connection. Definitely do what jmech said and check all connections.

[yeeter]

Originally Posted by Jwrandolph

the connectors are crimp style (I prefer to solder and shrink wrap all electrical connections).

Interestingly, an old timer aerospace technician once advised me against soldering stranded wire (I had always done as you, and soldered the crimp connections). His training was that the solder fuses the wires together to a solid block. But this solid portion is then prone to fatigue failure due to vibration. He said stranded wire, properly crimped, was more reliable than soldered.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by yeeter

Interestingly, an old timer aerospace technician once advised me against soldering stranded wire (I had always done as you, and soldered the crimp connections). His training was that the solder fuses the wires together to a solid block. But this solid portion is then prone to fatigue failure due to vibration. He said stranded wire, properly crimped, was more reliable than soldered.

X2 on that. Quality crimps (I use non insulated ones), quality crimp tool, and quality shrink tubing. Soldering actually increases resistance.

And hey Jwrandolph, welcome to OCC!

[john hall]

OK, so there is no seat switch in play. Cut the key switch on--DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE! Flip the PTO switch, you should hear it click/engage. Start wiggling wires until it disengages, shouldn't take but a minute or 2 to do this. If you can make it disengage by doing this, you'll know about where the problem is. Otherwise you are going to have to trace it end to end. The whole disengages when it hits a bump scenario, sounds like something big is loose and tugging on a wire. Maybe you'll get lucky and find the problem quickly. Its possible that despite your wiring harness being hacked to pieces, there is only one "bad spot".

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by yeeter

Interestingly, an old timer aerospace technician once advised me against soldering stranded wire (I had always done as you, and soldered the crimp connections). His training was that the solder fuses the wires together to a solid block. But this solid portion is then prone to fatigue failure due to vibration. He said stranded wire, properly crimped, was more reliable than soldered.

I don't think things corrode in space... or INSIDE of any type of anything really.... Crimp connections are fine doing wiring inside the cab of a car because no exposure to elements..... Plus, I'd hate to know how much vibration anything aerospace takes. Not really the same thing here. I strongly disagree.

Originally Posted by twoton

Soldering actually increases resistance.

Some jack-wad engineer tried to tell a bunch of techs that one time. We actually went out and made up a bunch of different wires. Some soldered and some not. Resistance was absolutely the same. Maybe he (engineer) just was bad at soldering.

If it really created more resistance on some super low level, I wouldn't think would solder complete circuit boards.


Solder and shrink wrap: NOTHING BETTER. Period.
Solved so many reoccurring electrical problems this way, I can't even count.

[yeeter]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I don't think things corrode in space... or INSIDE of any type of anything really.... Crimp connections are fine doing wiring inside the cab of a car because no exposure to elements..... Plus, I'd hate to know how much vibration anything aerospace takes. Not really the same thing here. I strongly disagree.

This makes sense Jon, and as a previous owner of British sport cars can attest to what corrosion does to electrical connectors. My understanding was that properly crimped connectors have a fused bond. (and am guessing there is a difference in crimp/crimper quality between aircraft connectors and tractor connectors)

As for vibration, I have no idea. He was not putting stuff into space (I was), but came from military aircraft where reliability is a big deal.

A google search found a lot on the topic. Some surprising recommendations.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

... Resistance was absolutely the same.

Yup, initially. It's the continued action of the flux on the wire that causes the resistance to increase over time.