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#41
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Well, it didn't start this morning :/
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Is the B- the large wire that bolts to the grill/frame? If so, it's good. All the wires on the coil were tight. So I don't think it was any of those. I didn't look real well into the fuel tank. That's a possibility I suppose. Although I think I smelled fuel after I cranked it a little bit. I just replaced the spark plug when I bought it, so I doubt that's it, but certainly not ruling it out completely. I have a new one ready for the 149. I'll try that too. It seemed to turn very quickly, so I'm thinking maybe it's a valve. Should it fire after cooled down if it's the valve? I took the coil and condenser out and brought it home. I'm going to try and bench test it. Does anyone know what resistance I should get on each coil? How do I test the condenser? My 149 runs, could I take the condenser and coil off it and swap to see if that's the issue? Here is a video of it turning over. It seems a little quicker than normal. Thoughts? https://youtu.be/BZli-tNS0vQ If I get the 149 running well, I'm ordering the PTO parts so I can put it into commission. Then I'll haul the 1200 back to my house so I can tinker with it, if it's not something simple to fix. I REALLY don't want to take off the head and mess with valves. Thanks everyone for the help!
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-Jason Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54 Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project) And a couple of Subarus |
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#42
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Brian April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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#43
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This has been an unbelievable discussion the knowledge being discussed has been very impressive
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#44
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It shows 1.1 ohms on +/- and 8850 on +/tower So, it looks like the coil is bad. Hopefully that's the only issue. Should I swap the one from the 149 to test it out? I tested it, and it was aprox 4.5 and 9500. I plan on getting them both running, should I just bite the bullet and buy a new coil, since it seems the one off the 1200 is bad anyway. Remember, the 1200 is outside of town in a field, I'd rather not run out there to test a part I'm pretty sure is bad. From what I've read there isn't a good way to test a condenser with a digital meter. For $6 should I just get a new one? Any suggestions on manufacturer? Here is what i"m looking at right now, because Prime. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A16MP6R2VB2XI3 Condensor https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-7-...k301+condenser
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-Jason Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54 Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project) And a couple of Subarus |
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#45
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#46
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Stens parts are fine, but make sure it is the correct OHM rated coil. I doubt it's a condenser. A bad condenser will still fire, but usually runs rough. I'd pull the coil off the 149, take it out the "field" and get the 1200 going, then bring it to a more suitable place to work on it. What's wrong with just getting a coil off of a parts store? I order online too.... stuff I can't get locally. Doesn't matter, I just think it's funny that people now days would rather order something online and wait 3 or 4 days to get it. My local parts stores can usually have most everything the next day, and I'm rarely not in town. Or, they will deliver to me... but I'm "special".
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#47
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Honestly, if I could find an auto parts store with employees that acted like they want to be there and help me, I might go there even if it costs a couple bucks more. But I haven't had much luck in that area. Thanks everyone for the insight. I'm out of town Wednesday thru the weekend, so it may be another week before I get back out there. I'll check out Advance and see if they have the part in stock tomorrow, if they do I may run out tomorrow night just to see if it works.
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-Jason Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54 Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project) And a couple of Subarus |
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#48
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Proper range is 4-8 according to this http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=11
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-Jason Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54 Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project) And a couple of Subarus |
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#49
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I think he mean, what is the OHM rating of the coil you posted on Amazon. It doesn't say.
I must just be blessed in my area as far as parts guys go. Besides.... I usually go in with a part number. They people are willing to help, but I can find part numbers faster than they can (if one of the "good" guys aren't available). |
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#50
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Jason, Should be 3.2 to 3.5 ohm, internal resistor coil like this one;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CO4WA2...I12BTRZ0XVWXGC Jon's right, the one in your link does not list an ohm rating. Not to say that it is not the right coil. I bought a Bosch Blue last year for my 1200. Tractor died just like yours after mowing for about 2 1/2 hrs. Brought in an old coil from my parts tractor and it fired right up, still running. So the point is that the more expensive coil is no guarantee of quality. |
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