Thank you FrankF3 for helping me find my new (to me) 1772! - Page 6

MWShaw · #51 10-31-2015, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

On your rear end braces:
Stop trying to "overthink" them. This is the first one you've owned. Trust that Sam Mac, a guy who has owned and rebuilt SGT's for years has taken all the "thinking" out of it for you. You need not try to redesign, or come up with a less $$ idea. The braces are simple, and effective. You need only to buy and install them.

On the rear cat 0: The GT and SGT hitches are different. You will have to make changes for it to work.

Hey now, I had one before. How do you think my 782, ended up with power steering and front hydros?
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=17498

But, no. You are right I have decided. Just go with the braces from Xtreme, as they are.

I have read the three points are different, as near as I can tell, it is the length of the lift bar, that connects to the lift cylinder? If that is the case, I plan to see if if I can lengthen the one from the 782.

I'll know more when I get the 782 apart.

Thanks for your input, I think it was your advise to another member, that led me to the solenoid upgrade for the glow plugs.

Everyone here has been a huge help.

MWShaw · #52 10-31-2015, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bugeye

The tins will be fine without the paint. But, I sent my Kohler tins to JetHot many years ago. They still look great and no corrosion. Kinda expensive for the JetHot coating, but a nice product.

Paint is not an issue, other than the time it takes to do it. I would do a base coat clear coat, 2K. I have a 1/2 of clear left over, Just need to buy the yellow and cream colors.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JLM78

You get your 1772 up and going your enjoy it

I'm trying, I'm trying!

MWShaw · #53 11-01-2015, 06:17 PM

Got the three point moved from the 782, to the 1772. Of the (7) bolts that held it to the 782, only (3) lined up on the 1772. Had to drill (4) new holes in the frame of the 1772.

Lift bar appears to be 5.5 " too short.

Finished up the solenoid

MWShaw · #54 11-02-2015, 07:17 PM

Cut the lift bar and welded in a 5.75" extension;

Then assembled the 3pt. I never had the arms on the 782, So It may not be exactly right;

MWShaw · #55 11-02-2015, 07:22 PM

After that I put the tins back on it, my good seat from the 782, the mule drive and the 50" deck off of the 782.

Engaging the pto darn near stalled the engine,

Once I was able to mow a little bit, any amount of load had it smoking black and slowing down.

Then the icing on the cake, when I shut the engine down, the fuel pump continues to run and the oil light stays lit, when the key is in the "off" postion.

The ignition switch is a new Kubota part, so I wondering why it is not turning off.

Good day, bad day.

JLM78 · #56 11-02-2015, 07:41 PM

Are 1572 will smoke when you hit heavier Grass but clean wright up

J-Mech · #57 11-02-2015, 07:59 PM

Your lift links that run down from the rockshaft are on the wrong side of the lower arms. They attach on the inside.

There is more than the length of the lift bar and the absence of holes that is different between the two hitches (GT and SGT). The GT will work as you have found out, but it isn't as heavy built.

MWShaw · #58 11-02-2015, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Your lift links that run down from the rockshaft are on the wrong side of the lower arms. They attach on the inside.

There is more than the length of the lift bar and the absence of holes that is different between the two hitches (GT and SGT). The GT will work as you have found out, but it isn't as heavy built.

I actually switched those after I took that picture. That crossbar is bent, and one of the lower attach pins are bent. All of the heim balls were froze up. I just wanted to get it mounted, soak everything with PB blaster and let the vibrations loosen things up. I most likely will remove it after all the joints work as they should.

I'm sure you are right about the differences, but I used what I have.

I guess I'll pull the ignition switch back out, see if some of the wiring got fouled in the hydro levers?

I'm at a loss.

J-Mech · #59 11-02-2015, 08:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MWShaw

Engaging the pto darn near stalled the engine,

You have to have the throttle up a little on the diesels with the Haban deck.... A large amount of stuff to get moving. Or did you mean with the deck not on?

Quote:

Originally Posted by MWShaw

Once I was able to mow a little bit, any amount of load had it smoking black and slowing down.

Did you check/clean/replace the air filter? Fuel filter? I skimmed through the thread, didn't see anything but I didn't study all the posts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by MWShaw

Then the icing on the cake, when I shut the engine down, the fuel pump continues to run and the oil light stays lit, when the key is in the "off" postion.

Did you perhaps wire up the glow plug relay incorrectly? Try disconnecting it and see if the fuel pump still runs.

FrankF3 · #60 11-02-2015, 09:52 PM

Like Jonathan said, what did it do before you put the relay on it? Also check for wires shorting out next to the forward/rev hydro lever on the dash. Look down through the slot in the dash as you move the lever back and forth with the engine not running. I've run across 2 cubs where the flat stock that attaches to the lever wore through some wires on the harness. When you get multiple wires shorting out, no telling what's going to turn on, turn off or light up.