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  #21  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:34 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alvy View Post
I see that now. Weird because the #12s I have come with a 5/16 head on them where the 1/4s are 7/16. Guess I never paid attention to the thread diameter
Yeah, that is odd. Usually a #12 has a larger head. (3/8")
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  #22  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:53 PM
o---o o---o is offline
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Just curious, what type of head and what color were the factory screws? Is it the 3/8" hex mentioned above?
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  #23  
Old 09-03-2014, 10:57 PM
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I'm thinking of getting these to make cover removal quick and easy. Opinions? http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-24-Screws...item35dbd79862
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  #24  
Old 09-03-2014, 11:29 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I'm thinking of getting these to make cover removal quick and easy. Opinions? http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-24-Screws...item35dbd79862
First of all...... how often do you take the tunnel cover off that it needs to be easier? Secondly, you don't want a Philips head screw when you can use a hex headed bolt. Trust me on this one. Third, why on earth would you order 50 screws off ebay when you can go to a hardware store and buy 4?
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  #25  
Old 09-04-2014, 01:55 AM
o---o o---o is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
First of all...... how often do you take the tunnel cover off that it needs to be easier? Secondly, you don't want a Philips head screw when you can use a hex headed bolt. Trust me on this one. Third, why on earth would you order 50 screws off ebay when you can go to a hardware store and buy 4?
I look in there quite often to be sure things look legit (OCD) and don't have any bolts in it right now. A hardware store is more than $7.90 in gas away lol.
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  #26  
Old 09-04-2014, 01:58 AM
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cubby102 cubby102 is offline
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In my honest opinion I would not* use a screw driver stule head. I would stick with a regular bolt head. Ever try and remove the footpaths screws /bolts from something like a well used quietline.....
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  #27  
Old 09-04-2014, 06:06 AM
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Originally Posted by DoubleO7 View Post
Be sure to use plenty of anti-sieze on SS fasteners that you install with a wrench.
Screwdriver tights might not, but wrench driven SS fasteners are easy to gall the fastener together with the nut.
Then you have to twist them off or drill them out.
And stainless is not fun to drill.
+1 on this. Stainless is relatively soft (tough, but soft) so galls more easily. Plus, the stainless is not nearly as strong as a hardened bolt, so careful using them in areas where you need high strength.

Im replacing many of mine with stainless in areas where its just holding things together. Bought an assortment online at a decent price and filling in the specialty sizes via mcmaster or amazon. Some of the stainless are 18-8 (or something else) which is cheaper and more workable, but does corrode, or you can go 316 or 304 and improve the corrosion resistance (at a price)
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  #28  
Old 09-07-2014, 03:42 PM
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Any tips on how to drill out the ones closet to the tractor tower? Kind of tight to get my drill in there. Have not looked if going under the tractor is an option.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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