New to me 1450 and first post
 

I picked up this 1450 from the scrap yard for 60 bucks.
Brought it home, inflated the tires, fiddled with the points and coil(nfg) and got it running! With the coil swapped out and the points set and filed it runs great!
It's a dual spool hydraulic unit, but the spool seems seized, any advice?
The driveshaft has a scary amount of wobble, thoughts?
The whole tractor seems to lean to the drivers side, what could be causing this?
It seems the whole frame is leaning when you look at how it attaches to the rear of the tractor?
Thanks for any help, regards, Tom

Hi Tom! Welcome to OCC! A lot of 1450 enthusiast here, including myself.

That's a nice score, you got! I got one too, that was leaning, from a recycling center. I drove it up to my truck, lol! The problem turned out to be a broken "z" bracket on the left side of the tractor. I'm not sure this is your problem or not, but don't hurt to look!

John

Nice score, and welcome to OCC.

Hard to tell from the picture but it kinda looks like the bolts are missing or broken where the frame bolts to the trans-axle and/or what John said OR the frame could be bent back there.

Welcome to OCC! Looks like the frame is twisted. The rear view makes the frame above the rear end look like its leaning to the left. Or Mark is correct and it's just missing the bolts
Some one will correct me but frames are pretty easy to find

If he needs one, I just hope they are as plentiful up there as they are here.

Looks great!!

I bet you are missing some bolts in the transaxle or transaxle mounting brackets...

I grew up on a 1450! Keep us posted!!:beerchug:

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...283#post387283

:Welcome2:

Great score! Your frame looks twisted, but Quiet Line is one of the most successful selling series in the IH Cub Cadet armada so fending spare parts is easy with few exceptions. I suggest you find another one with all the parts missing on yours (AKA: Frame/side panel/Hood/Front end just to name a few..) and from there you work your way to a functional machine. By the way, we have a member who live in Alberta, is name is Lance and I bet he can help you finding what you need.

PS: Just the dual spool and plumbing worth a few times the price you pay for, I'm willing to pay up to 200 loonies just for that myself! The engine alone can worth $200 to $300 since it's a runner! You did great! :ThumbsUp:

Welcome to OCC! Congrats on your 1450!

Hi all,
Thanks for all the responses. Upon further investigation I think I know what happened to the frame. There is a hefty dent in the right side rear fender, I'm pretty sure somebody backed into the tractor , denting the fender and pushing the whole frame to the left. The bolts are in place, but there is bending of the frame rails where they connect to the rear end. If I wanted to tear it down, I'm pretty sure it could be straightened out on a press.


Can the driveshaft be removed from these without shifting the motor ahead?

Have begun adding pen oil to the spool, but no luck with releasing yet.

Thanks, Tom

Straightening the frame could work, but I think getting a different one would make your life so much easier if there are any available in your area.

Finding a QL roller would be great and save you a bunch of money too.

That way you can just remove parts from the damaged tractor, clean/repair them and bolt them right onto the new frame. You gotta do what's right for you and your situation though.

Good luck and keep us posted.

Sounds good that you found the "leaning" problem! Hopefully, you can straighten out the frame some.

I usually pull the engine, to remove the drive line for service. It's easier in the long run, in my opinion. I already broke one cooling fan already while trying with the engine still in the bay. You'll most likely find that both ends of the drive line are worn.

Hopefully you get that spool valve freed up!

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove the side panels.

Remove the tunnel cover.

Sand the drive shaft clean in the areas in front of the driveshaft output yoke and the cooling fan. Apply some sort of lubricant such as WD 40 to the driveshaft.

Remove the snap ring in the front recess of the cooling fan and slide it forward on the driveshaft.

While rotating the fan on the driveshaft, move the fan forward about 3 inches.

Put a jack under the rear end and raise the tractor about 3 inches. Put a block between the housing and the jack to distribute the weight.

Install a jack stand between the frame rails and up under the drive shaft, just forward of the driveshaft output yoke, the one that attaches to the rear rag joint.

Rotate the drive shaft so the spirol pin in the transmission input yoke is in the vertical position.

Lower the tractor, using the jack that you have under the rear, until the drive shaft is LIGHTLY! resting on the jack stand. The jack stand MUST be right in front of the driveshaft output yoke. The driveshaft Must be supported well enough that when you drive the spirol pins out you cause no damage to the transmission input bearing.

Now, drive the spirol pin out of the transmission input yoke.

Now drive the spirol pin from the driveshaft output yoke. You may have to raise, rotate, lower to get that pin in an accessible position.

Once both pins are out, raise the tractor with the jack, enough to remove the jack stand.

Rotate the yokes and rag joint assembly about the shaft and move it forward.

Be aware; if you have a single rear rag joint there will be a ball bearing inside the transmission input yoke that aids in driveshaft centering, do not loose this.

Remove the bolts that attach the driveshaft input yoke to the front rag joint.

Remove the driveshaft from the machine.

Inspect and if needed replace the front rag joint, the cooling fan, the rear rag joint(s) and both front and rear ball bushings.

cooling fan part # IH-547749-R1
rag joint part # 722-3000
ball bushing part #941-3004
5/16” x 1 ¼” coiled spring pins. Mcmaster-carr #91598A526


Put it back together. Sorry, no pictures.

Other information you may find useful in servicing your Quietline;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...625#post390625

Have fun!

Tom, don't forget, a bad drive line vibration and "play" can also attribute from the aqs engine oil pan, worn iso mounts, worn engine cradle, and perhaps the engine drive hub and bushing.

None of these repairs are difficult, just taking time to do them usually results in a good correction made. Could be that the 1450 was operated quite a lot while being bent, or leaning, causing a drive line aggravation.

:biggrin2:

Nice score with the dual hydraulics!

A question to those suggesting a new frame, don't the front hydraulic ports come out of the frame? Not that it would be hard, but I assume he'd have to drill holes for those if he didn't get a frame from another dual hydraulic WF?

Yes he would.

Hello again,
Wow, I'm blown away by all the kind and extremely generous posts!
Particularly Twoton, that advice on removing the shaft was so well written it should be in the tech section permanently.
I haven't a lot of spare time right now, but I give it half hour here, hour there. I have managed to free the hydraulic spool.I had to remove the steering wheel and dash to get better access. The pen oil wasn't having a lot of success, so I ended up removing the chain link fasteners from the actuating levers and tapping the valves down, then wiggling them back and forth by clamping onto them with a small vise grip. Ultimately, the most effective was to tap the valve down, wiggle back up, tap down again, wiggle up. This freed things up fairly quickly. I still don't know whether I will try to salvage the tractor as a working unit. It probably would make more sense to keep what I can use and part out the rest. Dunno yet.
Regards, Tom

Made some more headway today,
I got to thinking that if a whack on the right side pushed the frame to the left, maybe I could fix it by applying a judicious amount of force to the opposite side. So I took the fenders off and bolted a heavy piece of steel to the fender mounting holes and then pushed on that with my loader forks, voila right back to normal!
Now I am looking at the trunnion, and it does show some wear, should I try to fix this before I put it back together , or is this amount of wear still ok?
Thanks, Tom

Fix the trunion wear and check the bolts holding the frame to the axle to make sure they are not loose or broke from all the moving arond. Glad you got it straightened out.

Bill

^^^^ What Bill said.:beerchug:

Good work on the frame!!:beerchug:

Like Bill and Todd said... go ahead and fix the trunion while you are there.. I feel like there must be some bolts loose or missing in the rear axle horns or either the brackets that tie the front of the transaxle to the frame.. that is about the only thing that seems like it wouldve let the frame twist like that..
Great progress... keep us posted! I have a soft spot for the quietlines.. I grew up on a 1450 and Mom still uses it weekly! :American Flag 1:

Glad to hear you got the frame straightened out!

Well, I fixed the trunion.
Now I have a question.
Is this the bushing/ball Cub Cadet 941-3004? (It's the coupler from the rear of the driveshaft that has the little ball at the hydro unit)
If so, how do I get it out?
Thanks, Tom

941-3004, yup. Cold chisel and hammer.

It will press out
Use a vise and a couple of sockets, a big one lage enough to accept the bushing and a smaller one to press it out with. Pipe couplers will work also if they are the right size.
Looks like your driveshaft is shot also by the looks of that coupler
Did Ya get the spools freed up yet?
Probably seized where the inner one goes through the outer one.
Common for these dual spool rigs when they spent a lot of their life in the elements. I have 3 of 'em in the same fix.
Good Luck!

Unless the picture is fooling me, that coupler looks ruined.

There is some wear on the coupler, but if I replace the bushing I think it will still be okay. There is not enough material missing around the bushing to matter and the steel ball still sits snugly in place in it's recess.

Yeah, I think you'll be fine.

Update,
Well I have done a fair bit to the old 1450. I finally got the parts to fix the driveline. I had the motor out and did the cradle mod and reinstalled using old top ISO bushings on bottom and new sway bar bushings on top. New throttle cable.
I had hydro creep and took some trial and error, but I'm satisfied with that situation, it's not 100%, but it's very close and, given the wear in the parts, more than acceptable.
To do this adjustment I backed off the brakes so that they would not grab with the pedal locked down, I then placed the speed control lever forward a bit and then kicked it into neutral using the brake pedal, locked the brake pedal down and proceeded to adjust for neutral by moving the cam bracket until I had no wheel movement with the back wheels jacked off the floor and the engine running.
At this point my speed lever was not in it's neutral groove, so I had to adjust the linkage.
Here is where I did something that I think was quite important.I clamped vise grips to the trunnion bracket and cam bracket so I would not lose neutral while I got the speed linkage adjusted.
I ended up having to remove the link rod to get it freed up, not a fun job, but not horrible. Once free and reattached it was quite easy to bring it into adjustment.
If not for the seized linkage rod, this whole thing could be done in a few minutes.
I think the order is important here.
I got a lot of my info on this here: http://www.mytractorforum.com/19-cub...1643?_k=bbal58
I am including a few photos of a couple of things I did.
Anyway, the tractor seems to be back from the dead, starts great and drives good! Amazing considering where it came from and how it looked. I don't even have a ton of money into parts, mostly time.
Thanks for all the help I've received up until this point!, Tom

Thanks for the update!