What a rag

[twoton]

From page 20;

Originally Posted by twoton

... and refilled with Mobil One full synthetic 10 w 30.

From page 20;

Originally Posted by j4c11

Interesting, the manual says:

"Straight 30-weight oil is preferred. SAE 10W-30 oil is not recommended above 32F. Using this oil substantially increases oil consumption and combustion chamber deposits. "

Which is why I was asking. Keep us posted.

From page 21;

Originally Posted by vr4Legacy

I'm curious to see how the 10W does for you.

As a follow up to this I have since switched to Shell Rotella 30 wt. Good oil, good price;

https://www.walmart.com/ip/14958325?...&wl13=&veh=sem

[OldSkull]

Glad you wake up this thread!
I guest you switch back to 10w-30 next winter David
I project to use Royal Purple assembly oil + Brake in oil for the K321 I'm rebuilding and after 10hr I switch back to 10w-30 for the winter until the meter hit 50hr after that he goes back to 30w.

[twoton]

Originally Posted by OldSkull

I project to use Royal Purple assembly oil + Brake in oil for the K321 I'm rebuilding and after 10hr I switch back to 10w-30 for the winter until the meter hit 50hr after that he goes back to 30w.

Sounds like a plan!
__________________________________________________ _________________________________________

temporary storage...

If the oil pan threads are sloppy you can helicoil it like this;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...&postcount=168

But if its damaged from rubbing on the frame rails you might look for a cast pan to replace it.

Oil pan gasket part # 235353-S

Pull the head and plane like others have said. Check out olds45512 video on that;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...95&postcount=1

De carbon the head, piston top, valves and lifter galley;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...223#post338223

head gasket, stock, 10 - 14 HP (part # KH-47-041-15-S)

Rebuild the carb;

http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/carb_rebuild.pdf

carb rebuild kit (part # 25 757 02-S)

Check the ball bushings at the engine drive coupling and at the transmission input yoke to see how much play there is in relation to the drive shaft ends. If either is to sloppy you may need to replace them and or you driveshaft. Jeff in PA can set you up with the solid motor mounts, drive shaft and the ball bushings if you need.

Get a set of new Points Kohler (part # 47 150 03-S)

And set the timing using the static method;

http://mgonitzke.net16.net/tools/static_timing.pdf

Make a steering wheel puller;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...647#post362647

And upgrade your steering;

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...639#post361639

Sorry, that's all I got for now..
__________________________________________________ _____

Random info;

unsubstantiated...

Sickle Bars – Side Mount:
Haban 401D for 8, 10, 12, and 14 hp Jacobsen / Ford garden tractors (64'-71')
Haban 402A IH Cub Cadet (Missing Parts Pages)
Haban 402C Fits IH cub cadet 70,100,71,102,122,123.
Haban 402D, 402E, IH Cub Cadet
Haban 403A Massey Ferguson
Haban 405, 405A, 415, 415A Bolens
Haban 406 John Deere (Repair Parts Pages Only)
Haban 408D Case (Missing Parts Pages)
Haban 409 Ariens
Haban 413 Gravely
Haban 414 Wheel Horse
Haban 416 John Deere (Repair Parts Pages Only)
Haban 416A John Deere
Haban 420W John Deere (Missing Parts Pages)
Haban 425 Bolens QT and QS Tractors
Haban 426 John Deere (Repair Parts Pages Only)

[twoton]

Ten characters minimum required?

Don't mind me.

So this list represents some of the items that I have purchased for the repair/upgrade of my International Cub Cadet 1200. I know many of these parts are available through various suppliers. I am not advocating one over the other. I think it's important to support the people that support this site. So, in the "for what it's worth" column...

Ace Hardware
Assorted fasteners
Paint
Thread locker

Amazon
Air filter K & N (part # E-4655)
Carlisle Turf Master 16 x 6.5 – 8 front tires
condensor Primeline (part # 7-01338)
Grote tail lights (part # 47732)
Metal valve stems
Points Kohler (part # 47 150 03-S)
Rear work light
Spark plug Champion H8-C
Starter relay ( part # 725-3001/925-3001 )
Hydro filter Stens #120-265

http://www.ccspecialties.org/
axle tube outer bearing (part # 941-0363)
axle tube seal (part # 921-0187)
carb rebuild kit (part # 25 757 02-S)
clutch throwout bearing (part # 941 - 3056)
Deck; spindle ST-745 spindle (part # 741-3001)
spindle housing cap (part # 703-0115-0499)
spindle housing (part # 903-0117)
OEM New Style CUB CADET Quiet Line Muffler (part # 951-3029)
Oil pan gasket (part # 235353-S)
PTO switch (part # 925-3022/725-3022)
rear end cover plate gasket (part # 350837-R3)
spark plug grommet, Kohler (part # 47 313 01-S)
spring assist (part # PN/ IH-548380-R91)
thermal isolation gasket (part # 47-049-01)
throttle shaft bushing (part # 25-158-02-S)

http://www.cubclassics.com/pulling.html
blue spring
flex coupling disc page 4 on Cub Cadet parts, part # 722-3000, Yea, it's A RAG joint!
teaser spring part #932 3017
ball bushing part #941-3004

Ebay
Kohler Governor Gear Kit A-235743-S

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/
Camshaft shim .005" (part # 275066-S)
Camshaft shim .01" (part # 275067-S)
Governor gear kit (part # A235743S)
Governor shaft bushing (part # 23576)
Governor shaft (part # KH-A-235256-S)

It should be noted that without our sponsors like Mark Hellrung, this site might not exist. Mark supplies a wide variety of new Cub Cadet parts, he reproduces no longer available Cub Cadet parts, he is a custom metal fabricator and provides machine services. Mark's continued support of us through his daily input on this site deserves a "check Mark first", here, and here, for any items that are needed for your project.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#
5/16” x 1 ¼” coiled spring pins for clutch rebuild #91598A526
Vinyl door edge for back edge of Quietline hood # 8451A47
Heim joints;
Steering: (4)
3/8"-24 Internal Thread-Right Hand Shank
# 4444T931

Hydro Control Linkage: (1)
5/16"-24 Internal Thread-Left Hand Shank
# 4444T922

Hydro Control Linkage: (1)
5/16"-24 Internal Thread-Right Hand Shank
# 4444T921

Clamp on shaft collars for clutch rebuild #6436K15
Spring Steel Round Shim to set camshaft end play, 0.005" Thick, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD # 90482A125
Brake pad relining material, 3/16" x 3" #6175K819
Screw in type, stainless steel grease fittings, 1/4" - 28 SAE-LT Male #1293K21
4140 5/8" Alloy steel rod for drive shafts (chrome-moly steel) #8927K98

http://midwestsupercub.net/MWSC2015.pdf
Clutch friction disc, Kevlar/fiberglass item # KD

Cedar Rapids tire
4 bolt on 4"front rims

Napa
5 gallon bucket of hytran equivalent (meets or exceeds International B-6 Specification)

Northern Tool
4 bolt wheel hub
1" weld on spindle

http://www.redoyourhorse.com/kohler-...-plate-decals/
KOHLER ENGINE SPEC PLATE DECALS

Steiner Tractor, wheel weights
https://www.steinertractor.com/IHS331-wheel-weight-set

http://www.tirechain.com/23X10.50X12.htm

Zach Kerber Machine
6 pin driver
Blue Spring
Drive shaft
head gasket, stock, 10 - 14 HP (part # KH-47-041-15-S)
Solid engine mounts

Cross Reference Cub Cadet to NAPA; http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=36314

Hey, if you have any part numbers that you know will work with the Quietlines that would be helpful to add here, don't hesitate to send me a PM, thanks.

[twoton]

So hey, if you find any information in my thread that is vague, misleading or just down right incorrect, feel free to send me a PM so I can make corrections. Thanks.

Air gap adjustment / front PTO clutch Page 17

Clutch assembly jig Pages 10 & 11

Clutch stuff Pages 1 – 7 & 10 - 14

Clutch stuff again Page 17

Carburetor Page 19

Decarbonizing Pages 18 & 19

Exhaust Pages 16 & 21

Gear box service & hydro Page 14

Headlights / worklight / taillights Page 15

Hitch Page 14

Hood hinge tighten up Page 17

Horn Page 15

Lawn rake / Dethatcher Page 14

Motor mounts/ Frame rail upgrade Page 17

Mower deck re fresh Page 21

Oil pan repair Page 17

Pictures of paint drying N / A

Quotes Page 21

Release arm repair Page 14

Snow thrower Page 17

Spindle upgrade Pages 16 & 17

Spring assist Page 14

Tires, front Page 18

Tune up Page 16

Valve adjustment Page 19

Wiring upgrade Page 15

Walbro carb stuff; https://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs...table_carb.asp




So, if you have found any value to my thread, I would appreciate it if you would click the "Rate Thread" button at the top of the page and vote for the rating that you think it deserves, Thanks.

Did You Click the "Donate" button yet? Do it!

[dodge trucker]

hope its ok to revive this ancient thread.
I almost have my jig, as shown about the middle of this long thread, done.

but I did something stupid. In building this jig to be able to safely rebuild clutches, I had an oops.... I know why and how it happened, and what I could have done different, but it is what it is. got complacent more than anything, and I shouldn't have used the rip fence along with the cross cut (miter) guide.... but I thought "only need 2, and great way to make sure the dimensions were right" since I had just ripped that 1" rough sawn oak to 2-5/8" wide, 2 saw-cuts before... for what ever reason. I had my 2 blocks cut, as called out in the thread, but for some unexplained reason I decided to cut a 3rd one " just in case" I split one while assembling, or something... and #3 was the one that bit me.
if I'd have stopped after the 1st 2 were done, I'd have been OK... should have used an aux fence that stopped short of the blade, clamped to the saw's rip fence... or used the chop saw for the cross cut... even if I just needed 1 block of wood that size. I did this last Sunday, and have since "taken the week off" from being in the garage. could have done with 2 days, but I want my forehead to be "less obvious" when I go back to the saw..... in case the neighbor comes out to see what I'm building while I'm over there.
I 1st ran a table saw, ~40 years ago (my Dad's) and though its not something that I do every day, it's something I have done plenty of, over the last 40 years// enough to know better I guess....but I still screwed up this time.
In cutting the 2-5/8" X2-5/8" X 1" thick blocks, one of them decided to kick back on me, deflect off my right thumb which was holding a push stick, (and cut it, too) right into my forehead..... Its almost healed now, but was bad enough to freak out the wife/ and get her to try and drag me to the ER to be stitched up.... told her I wasn't going anywhere-- and didn't. It drew blood, which I had stopped up, before she saw me.....
I have owned a few table saws myself over the years. and used them plenty.
especially during, and for a few years just after, high school.
It seems that in these days of Craigslist and such it's easy to buy such a piece of equipment for the duration of a project then re-sell it when done.
I sold my last table saw a couple years ago for space considerations, and because I have a neighbor who was constantly on me-- "hey, I'm only 2 doors down, and have anything for woodworking that you'll ever need"... I had given him my radial arm about 10 years ago, besides....which he still has. so I was over there cutting out all these blocks of wood.. I cleaned it up, came home, and didn't tell him what I did.... he'd laugh it off at this point anyways... but being he is a retired nurse and his wife is still a nurse, I might get a bit of a "talking to", that would be the worst of it from him.... but I vacuumed all the sawdust and wiped up my blood stains and went home.... no biggie (but it "could have been") My Dad had a He11 of a wood shop too/ that equip is still there, my brothers use it all the time, but they aren't 30 miles away from the old house, either, like I am.
I have 1 more piece to cut... gotta rip a 4X4 down to the 2-5/8 X 2-5/8" and cut it to (I forget which, it isn't in front of me) either 6" or 8" long then I can glue and screw, and I can try my jig out on this PITA 1200 that is clogging my garage and get it outta here. ( it ain't the machine that is a PITA, but the machine's owner)

[clay1811/44c]

Remember no pictures it never happened. No that's ok, spare those with weak stomachs. Those power tools can bite you.

[twoton]

dodge trucker, Sorry to hear about your accident and am glad that it wasn't more severe.

Hope the jig works out for you.

[dodge trucker]

I've had worse.... up til a couple of months ago, not anything worth mentioning in a long while, but since mid Aug, I think someone upstairs thinks I gotta "make up for that" somehow.

[sawdustdad]

Kickback is the most common mishap on a table saw. Glad you weren't hurt worse. I always stand to the side when ripping. I did once, maybe 25 years ago, have a long thin piece kick back and dent the door behind the saw. Luckily, I was off to the side or it might have impaled me. Or at least left a bruise.