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#181
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If it isn't, it should be added with that picture as the definition.
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#182
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So…, after reading through some of the very helpful information available on this site;
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=32948 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...751#post315751 and others. I was ready, with scotch brite pad, plastic scraper, oven cleaner and brake cleaner in hand, to clean this mess up. |
#183
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I cleaned and planed the head,
http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/tools/headgasket.pdf http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...017#post176017 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1jF...ature=youtu.be |
#184
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Cleaned the piston top, top of the block, removed and cleaned the valves, cleaned the valve guides, the lifter cavity, flushed it all out well with brake cleaner and then blew it out with compressed air. I re oiled the piston and cylinder, lubed the valve stems before I reinstalled, chased out the threads…
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#185
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Lapped the valves, set the piston at top dead center and, using 1/2" and 7/16" open end wrenches, I adjusted the valve - tappet cold clearance.
Intake for K301, 321 & 341... (.008"/.010") Exhaust for same... (.017"/.020") ![]() |
#186
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Got a new head gasket (part # KH-47-041-15-S) from here;
http://ccspecialties.org/engine_exhaust.html Soaked it in water for a half hour and reinstalled the head following this torque sequence; |
#187
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Put everything back together, almost (what are all these engine tins for anyways?)
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#188
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Before I put the carb back on I thought it would be worth it to get that cleaned up too. So on one of my many trips to the local hardware store I picked up a 3” long piece of 5/16” treaded rod and two 5/16” serrated head hex nuts. I cut the rod in half and glued the two pieces in the previously chased out carb mounting holes with some red locktite. I had noticed in the past that the carb got unusually hot with the thin carb to block gasket so I installed a new thick thermal isolation gasket (part # 47-049-01).
Since I had already installed one of these carb rebuild kits (part # 25 757 02-S) I saw no reason to repeat that work but felt it was time to address the play in the throttle shaft. My understanding is that the dirt that is drawn into the engine through this air leak can be one of the prime reasons for premature engine wear. Installation of a throttle shaft bushing (part # 25-158-02-S) was simplified thanks to this write up by member Matt G; http://www.mgonitzke.net/cubcadet/to...rb_rebuild.pdf As a couple of the threaded holes on the face of the carb into which the air cleaner mounting bolts reside had become somewhat worn, I decided that, instead of drilling out and helicoiling, I would red lock tite in some 10 - 32 stainless steel threaded rod and add nylock nuts and stainless flat washers. |
#189
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#190
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…changed the engine oil with some 30 wt that I picked up at the local hardware store when I was buying the new grade 8 head bolts. Added a magnetic oil drain plug from here;
http://www.kirkengines.com/#Products index |
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Tags |
clutch, cub cadet 1200 quietline, rag joint |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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