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#1
12-12-2010, 11:34 AM
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Alum. Oil Pan Repair
Has anyone ever had success repairing an aluminum oil pan with a stripped mounting hole.
 I'm thinking helicoil method, but there doen't seem to be enough meat to be able to drill larger hole. I'm thinking JB Weld, redrill & tap... I'm thinking weld some aluminum in the hole, redrill, tap... also some other product my brother saw on some info.-like commercial, liquid metal (not sure of what it is...). Last resort, I'm thinking, anyone have a cast oil pan for a k341aqs for my 1650? Love to hear if anyone has had a successful method they could share. Thx!
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#2
12-12-2010, 11:48 AM
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JBWeld is an epoxy and is far weaker than the aluminum oil pan. It will not work.
Here is an oil pan I had to fix. I had a friend TIG weld the pan, building up the worn-down pads and partially filling in the hole. Before that, we drilled all the way through the pan with the correct tap drill size for a 3/8-16 bolt. Then after filling it in, the built-up metal was cut down to the correct height with a mill, then the tap drill was run through the hole from the back and the threads re-cut. Then small plugs were turned on the lathe, pressed into the back of the holes, welded in, and sanded off. All of the welding warped the pan a little bit, so I wet sanded it with the sheet of glass and sandpaper trick that I use to flatten heads. The CI pan would have been better, but I was running out of money. This didn't really cost me anything. Before: 100_3569 (Custom).jpg After: 100_3581 (Custom).jpg
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#3
12-12-2010, 12:30 PM
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I like to think that there isn't anything that I can't weld,grind,mill,fabricate,or repair,,,but sometimes it easier and cheaper to get a replacement. Unless it is not available. If it's just one bolt hole and you have the means to weld and re-tap go for it,otherwise buy another pan in good shape. Just my two cents.
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#4
12-12-2010, 12:38 PM
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If you do have to obtain another oil pan, make sure to get a cast iron one. I did that, when I owned a 1250.
__________________
Allen Proud owner of my Original and 126! My Grandpa's Cart Craftsman Lawn Sweeper Craftsman Plug Aerator
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#5
12-13-2010, 01:13 PM
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Thanks you all for the input. It is only 1 of the holes. I got another 3/8 - 16 bolt 1/4 inch longer, and it allowed me to grab some more thread deeper, so I'm OK for now... I still think I'd like to try something like these sites are offering... Anyone ever try them?
http://durafix.com/ or http://www.aluminumrepair.com/ seems fairly simple, however, I've taken the easy route in the past with less than desirable results, If i do try it, I'll report my findings... Thanks again!
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#6
12-13-2010, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
It works fine for small cracks/puncture like on a 12' fishing boat or a hairline casting crack. but in no way will it work for anything that really needs strength. BTDT. It has the strength of good solder, not a problem for stoping a leak or such, I've used it. But the right way to fix the pan is like Matt did. Heli ark the hole shut and re drill/tap. With the kind of shake, rattle & roll that goes on with a 1650, you will just be wasting your time, and possibly take out the other threaded holes.
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#8
12-13-2010, 04:52 PM
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My pan was worse than yours, except my drain hole was good. I bought a cast iron pan off ebay and paid under $30 including shipping. I'm glad I did. If you go that route, most of the pans will be listed as fitting the K301. It's the same pan. Just make sure it's for a Cub Cadet engine. Bids seem to start in the $10-12 range and end up around $20 or so. With shipping it's still a good buy.
__________________
Tony Stafford, VA 1650, 682...
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#9
12-13-2010, 06:10 PM
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I had an aluminum pan with 3 stripped holed. I drilled and tapped all 4 holes 7/16 Nf. I don't hsve a bottoming tap so I slugged the bolts the last 1/8th inch or so with the impact. They aren't comin out
__________________
Tyler Chiliak. Southeast Alberta Canada. My dad and I own, 1650, , 1450, 1250, 1250, 1200, 982, 782, 149, 149, 149, 128, 128, 123, 100, 100. Also a 1310, 1500, and 2 1600 IHC trucks.
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