105 hydro, Won't Go?

[Mizar N68X]

Hello OCC group,
I purchased a 105 on ebay for cheep so I do not expect this thing to work.
BUT, it would be nice nto see if I can get it to go.
Things I have done.
1.Changed oil in the 10HP Kohler engine.
2.Rebuilt carb.
3.Topped off Hydro unit.
The engine starts really good and runs well.
Things I know.
The lever was down and the catch was applied on the RH side by the seat.
The mower was pushed by hand onto my van and pushed by hand into the yard.
After geting it running and discovering that the hydro won't go I started the engine and pushed the hydro lever forward. That made it real easy to push under the carport. It was like it was trying to pull itself????? It was easy to back up too if I moved the leaver backwards while the engine was running.
What do you think? is the hydro "TOAST" or maybe something simple?
Again this is my First Hydro Cub Cadet. It's a 105.
:help:

[Yosemite Sam]

The VERY FIRST thing I would check is to see if the Hydro Release valves are stuck down. If they are, pull them out, clean them up get the little plungers to move freely, then put them back in.

If the valves are not stuck down, then make sure the input shaft (the little nub on the front of the transmission itself) is turning when the engine is running. If it isn't, then the spiral pin in the coupler is broken. Be careful when checking this, INJURY or DEATH could occur.

[ksanders]

If it is the hydro release valves, be careful letting it run with the lever in forward or reverse. If those valves finally pop back out the tractor will just take off on it's on. I was working on a 127 this spring that wouldn't move, so I went into the garage to grab a couple tools and heard the motor getting quieter. I look out and the 127 valves popped free and it went for a spin on it's own. Worse would be if you were around it and they pop free. Just a heads up

[Mizar N68X]

Hey Yosemite Sam,
The valve you talk about???
Can I get to it by removing the seat and fenders?

OOOOHHHH!!!!!!
Not good kanders!!!!!!
I had my head under the rear wheels and was moving the lever back and forth..... Ahhhh...... there might have been two pops????
That is GREAT advise~~~!!!!!

[bsyphrit]

not to butt in but you will need to remove fenders and seat just to get to see the valves, the lever on the side has a small flaper spring that depresses the top of the valves. that is unless the PO did not replace it with self unloading valves.

once the seat and fenders are off you should be able to start the tractor and see if the tops of the valves have poped up, for saftey you may want to have the tractor rears up on jack stands incase it suddenly jumps into gear.

[Mizar N68X]

Hello bsyphrit,
You are not butting...
I will take any help I can get...... Especially if it saves me time, money, or trouble!!!!!

Jack-stands??? OK I will try that...

Thanks!

[bsyphrit]

http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x4-5%20Service%20Manual.pdf
i have a 125 which is the 12 hp versionof yours, above id the manual you should check if you are unsure, you may have to split the tractor to get to the valves. when in dought read tthe manual and ask for advise

[Yosemite Sam]

I feel pretty stupid, for some reason I can not remember if you can see them from the top on a 105/125 series or not. It's only been a couple of years since I had a 125 apart. I think you can see them but I don't think you can get them out from the top.

I may be wrong about the whole thing...

[loghouse]

I just had one apart last week. In order to get the valves out and work on them you have to split the tractor. This is where the wide frame(WF) guys think they have it better than us. PB blaster works wonders on the buttons.
Good luck and send pictures.

Greg K.

[Mizar N68X]

Hello Loghouse,
I just read through the manual that bsyphrit posted.
Yep! Looks like I would have to split this tractor to get it going.
I still have to go back and read through the "SPLIT" process in section 2-34.
Anybody wanna buy a nice running 105 that doesnt move????