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#1
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Has anyone ever put a trans cooler on a hydro cub cadet? I want to put one on my 1250 because every time I go in the woods a stick comes up and rips all of the blades off of my cooling fan. So my question is: I have a ported rearend and wanted to know if there are any low pressure ports on it that I can tap into to get fluid to flow thru a cooler?
I was thinking about using this cooler and bolting it to the frame rail http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/18-FI...Q5fAccessories |
#2
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I don't know if their are any low pressure ports on the hydrostat, but I don't think that will cool very well. If you want to put a cooler on it I'd personally try and find one that looks like a little radiator/evaporator/heater core. Or if you happen to have one of them laying around you can clean it with something like Kooler Kleen and use it.
This is the type I'd get (this one is on my Town Car). I bought the cooler from NAPA for ~$50. It's designed for a truck that tows less than 10,000 lbs. This is in addition to the cooler in the radiator. In realistic terms I don't think you can get hydraulic fluid too cold. This works extremely well. ![]() |
#3
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Those sticks that are breaking your fan can hit any oil cooler you put in there, too. An oil cooler could be more fragile than the fan, and breaking it will result in a big leak instead of just a broken fan. For it to be effective you still need something to move air through it anyway. I think it would be simpler and cheaper to make a guard for the underside of the frame to keep debris out.
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#4
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I agree with Matt, I see this too often with my work. People trying to engineer around a problem rather than correcting the root cause of the problem. Unless you have added a lot of additional hydraulic valves/cylinders/motors that are causing additional heat to build up in the fluid, there is no reason to add additional cooling.
It kinda reminds me of a joke from my motorcycle mechanic days. Customer - "When I let go of the handlebars while riding down the road, the front starts to shake" Mechanic - "Then don't do that!" :biggrin2.gif: |
#5
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Yup....Get yourself some Steel Mesh Screen. Cut to size and mount to bottom of the frame.
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#6
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It kinda reminds me of a joke from my motorcycle mechanic days. Customer - "When I let go of the handlebars while riding down the road, the front starts to shake" Mechanic - "Then don't do that!" :biggrin2.gif:
:biggrin2.gif: ![]() ![]()
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'72 108 w/ 38" HIGH speed deck, '77 1200QL w/ homemade grader blade, '79 1450 44" grass tamer, '70 sears super 12 w/ 3pt , 19?? 100 w/ extra toys, 69' economy powerking 14 horse w/ FEL, 65' economy powerking w/ toys, 1982 allis chalmers 716 Jeff |
#7
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I would use a "radiator looking cooler" and mount it in behind the engine near the flywheel. Because there is air being pulled into the fan on the engine anyway. You would need to plumb the cooler into the return line on your ported transmission.
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#8
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![]() ![]() I think I would hire a young lad to clear the pathway your driving on while getting wood? Bribe him or her with perhaps lunch or something at a chip wagon, get them to go along and pick up the larger twigs and branches for you to run back and forth. Heck, you might even get away with just letting them drive the Cub for the afternoon and wouldn't cost you anything! I guess I am a little more hesitant to run my Cub through stuff like that - I figure that's what the 19 year old ATV is for, built for that kinda crap! Once the trail has been broke and clear sailing - then the Cub can show its face. :biggrin2.gif:
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Mike Ontario, Canada IH built 982, IH built 782, IH built 782 parts tractor, 100 w/fenders & lights, #4 trailer, 42" front blade, IH 2B tiller, 12" Brinly plow, Brinly cultivator, IH push mower, Sims cab, IH snowthrower, 450 blower. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#9
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Exactly what I was thinking. Why go through all that work of adding a cooler? Just protect your fan and you're good to go.
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Eric 1450 in progress.......... |
#10
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if you were to try to retro fit and make it stronger then the engineers desgned it to be i go along with looking at the fan itself, the screen is one way to go but also if you can find an older hydro like my 125 they came with a steel fan.
while doing my hydro fix i discovered this, i do not know if the shaft diameter size is the same but a steel fan would be stronger then the plastic crap they are dishing out as replacement parts now days. i myself would not go with a Tanny cooler my self, it in my opinion is overworking the original problem and creating more falure points in the system. but it is your machine and you do as you want to make it fit your needs. ![]() |
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