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#1
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Hi there,
Well, I’m finally going to do it: install a creeper drive on my Cub Cadet 100 that my family has owned since 1964. Instead of cutting down my driveshaft, I have a complete driveshaft/clutch/throwout/lever assembly sitting on the shelf, ready to be installed. Do I have to yank the engine to do the clutch install? I think I do… And while I’m at it, I will be replacing the bearing in the creeper I have. To do that, I just remove the large snap ring and press out the shaft/planetary gears/thrust washer/bearing/bearing cage from behind, right? It seems to be hung up on the o-ring; I was tapping it out with a hammer and suddenly it’s almost all the way out but doesn’t want to go further. Thanks! |
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#2
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Soooo... you removed the handle and the the shift yoke?
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Up to 534 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
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#3
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"Pull Engine to Replace Entire Clutch?"
If it were mine, definitely. 4 bolts and it's out of there. That will give you a chance to clean house in there and maybe reveal more maintenance issues such as leaky gaskets, sloppy axle pivot. tie rod ends etc. Then you can stand the ol' girl up on her butt and slide the cutch/d-shaft ass'y right down in there and easily replace the Spirol pins and or coupler if needed. You are using HD spirol pins, correct? A clean machine is a happy machine!! |
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#4
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Yes, definitely using spirol pins! No hardware store junk for me! ? thanks for the encouragement. And after my first post, I was able to separate the creeper—the oring was holding it in place.
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#5
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Yanked the engine this morning. Lifted the front end with a come along tied to the rafters, tapped out the spirol pin at the reduction drive, dropped the front end, and split the tractor. Now I have the transmission 100% disassembled because I’m finally gonna fix my noisy second gear (turns out I’m miss8ng a tooth, which I found way back in the differential housing). And, unbelievably because there were no symptoms, my R-3 shift fork was broken into two pieces. I can’t believe it was still working. Luckily, I have a good used second gear and a good used shifter fork. I read here somewhere on this awesome forum that shift forks can often break or have hairline fractures, and a bought a set off eBay about five years ago, waiting for this rainy day.
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#6
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Im not sure if my memory serves me well, but it seems that I recall a thread awhile back where I learned that IH used different 2nd gear ratio at one time. In other words, check that the replacement gear matches the existing gear to be sure..
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
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#7
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You are correct. you will have to replace the 3rd and second gear sliding and the second gear. serial number will determine which to use.
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Up to 534 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
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#8
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I know this sight is a mess, but it has some really great information about what gears were used and part numbers, as well as how to fix the shift forks.
https://gardentractorpullingtips.com/index.htm
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128 X 2, 129, 149, 1250, 1450 x 2 |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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