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#1
06-10-2026, 10:07 PM
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149 hydro lever
Hello, I just recently purchased a 149 cub cadet. Looks wise it in great shape, mechanical wise it could use some work. First would be the forward reverse lever on the dash. I have tried to comprehend the manual that I found on this page but it just doesn't make sense. Mine has what looks like a clamp at the bottom of the shaft. Do I just tighten that up?
Also by the time I got it home I had quite leak under the rear diff on my trailer. I've sprayed and wiped everything down but can't seem to see where it's leaking from. Any ideas there? Maybe the hydro to.diff gasket? If so, can the hydro be removed through the tunnel to replace this gasket ? The manual appears that way, but what's the real world answer? 
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#2
06-11-2026, 08:37 AM
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After a thorough cleaning, douse the suspect area with baby powder.
The leak will leave a trail in the powder and lead you right to the leak. There was a serial number break in the transmission control lever linkage at serial number 425,999. Yours looks to be below that# and uses the parts below, in the upper LH corner inset. Part #20 is a split plastic bushing that is tightened by the clamp when needed to cure loose control lever issues. At least that is the way it's supposed to work.
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#3
06-12-2026, 08:43 AM
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Thanks for the parts list. I actually tighten the clamp bolt a little and it made it better.
As for the leak, I have heard about the powder trick but to get powder where it's leaking from I would almost need to turn the tractor upside down. I'll see what I can do though. To my original question, can the hydro unit be pulled out from the top?
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#5
06-12-2026, 07:52 PM
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More than likely the leak is the cork gasket between the hydro and differential. it’s a common leak. I’ve done so many over the years and a long time ago I got 3/16s gasket material and make my own gasket instead of using the cork material
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#6
06-12-2026, 11:30 PM
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I know people have removed the pump though the tunnel, but I think it’s easier to just pull the whole rear out. You have to disconnect the driveshaft and hydraulic lines either way, then it’s only 6 more bolts and two linkages to just pull the whole rear. I tried pulling the one on my 1450 from the top once, from what I remember one of the bolts was nearly impossible to get a wrench on and have room to turn it.
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub 38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart      
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#7
06-13-2026, 09:10 AM
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^^ Agree it looks like a big job, but it really isn’t. Support the frame, roll the the whole thing backwards, then flip it up on a big block or milk crate. Easy to work on and oil stays in the diff.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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