1650 Won't Move

Todd O · #1 10-02-2025, 08:23 AM

We recently obtained a late 70's 1650 with a hydrostatic transmission. Upon starting, which was a chore in itself (engine runs, but not great) we found the unit would not move in forward or reverse. We also noticed that the hydraulic control lever to raise and lower the deck would not move.

We checked the hydraulic fluid level and found it was very low and was milky white. We changed the filter with a NAPA branded one and added new fluid to bring the level up to the bottom of the fill plug, started the tractor, but no dice, still wouldn't move. We also noted that you cannot push the tractor even an inch or so, as the wheels seem to be locked when on the ground, but if you lift the rear of the tractor, the wheels spin freely.

Unit has the automatic relief valves, so no buttons to push.

Checked the drive shaft pins and they appear intact and turning the pump shaft.

After working the hydraulic control lever, we were able to get it free and it did work properly raising and lowering the deck.

At this point we are at a loss of why the unit is not moving and would appreciate any guidance and suggestions of what to check next.

Thanks!

finsruskw · #2 10-02-2025, 09:28 AM

Milky white fluid denotes the presence of water in the system.
Completely drain and CHANGE the fluid and filter as well as cleaning out the case.
What did you mix with it to bring the fluid up to the correct level?
Case/IH Hy-TRAN is the recommended fluid for this application.

Todd O · #3 10-02-2025, 09:55 AM

Thanks for the quick response. The only fluid we could find locally was the VP racing ultra j20a plus hydraulic fluid.

finsruskw · #4 10-02-2025, 12:36 PM

Any Case/IH dealer will have HY/TRAN in stock

ironman · #5 10-02-2025, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Todd O

Thanks for the quick response. The only fluid we could find locally was the VP racing ultra j20a plus hydraulic fluid.

You obviously want to find out if you have a hydro problem before braking the bank on this tractor.
You are going to need 7 quarts of hydro fluid to fill it from empty.
Case Hy-Tran is gonna run you at least $7.00 a quart. (do the math)
If you have a Tractor Supply store nearby, you can get this stuff for half the price of Hy-Tran and it works just fine.
If you find out the hydro is good you can always change to Hy-Tran somewhere down the line if you want to.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...CABEgJDD_D_BwE

Cub Cadet 123 · #6 10-02-2025, 11:25 PM

I would pull both of the relief valves out and make sure they are actuating. If your lever was seized and your hytran had water in it, then chances are the relief valves are seized, too. Remove them, spray them with lubricant or soak them overnight in it, test them to make sure each one actuates, and then replace them.

Cub Cadet 123

Cub Cadet 123 · #7 10-02-2025, 11:27 PM

WOW, just noticed this is your second post. Welcome to the forum!

Cub Cadet 123

Todd O · #8 10-03-2025, 09:26 AM

Thank you for the responses, it is appreciated. Cleaned out the diff last night. Lots of white goop. Will try the suggestions and hopefully get this tractor moving again

CubDieselFan · #9 10-03-2025, 10:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ironman

You obviously want to find out if you have a hydro problem before braking the bank on this tractor.
You are going to need 7 quarts of hydro fluid to fill it from empty.
Case Hy-Tran is gonna run you at least $7.00 a quart. (do the math)
If you have a Tractor Supply store nearby, you can get this stuff for half the price of Hy-Tran and it works just fine.
If you find out the hydro is good you can always change to Hy-Tran somewhere down the line if you want to.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...CABEgJDD_D_BwE

This is what I use on almost all of mine. I do switch over to Hy-Tran if there are no leaks or dribbles.

Todd O · #10 10-03-2025, 09:38 PM

Drained and cleaned out the differential of all fluid and milky residue. Removed the auto relief valves and cleaned, but left them out of the tractor. Question I have is should I be able to move the tractor, either forward or reverse, with no fluid or relief valves installed by pushing? When I try, I cannot. The pinion, ring gear and output shaft of the pump seem locked. If jacked, both wheels turn freely, but when on the ground the unit doesn't move. Before we dug any further, I was hoping to see if this was normal with no fluid or not? Could the internal brake pad be seized to the gear connected to the output shaft?