1450 Electric PTO - Cleaning?

[Tom1878]

Going through electric PTO in my 1450 due to it seems like it is constantly engaged. When the engine is shut off the pulley will spin but it really drags and its obvious the air gap is not correct. After taking it apart I see this with all the rust (tractor has set for 4-5 years) and the bearing is in the pulley is also bad. My question is can I wire wheel these surfaces to get rid of the rust and clean them up without hurting the mating surfaces? Also, is there anywhere to get the shims for the original clutches?

Thanks, Tom

[darkminion_17]

You can clean them up. I would replace the bearing while you are at it. As for the shims, Mc Master Carr may have what you need.

[ironman]

Originally Posted by Tom1878

Going through electric PTO in my 1450 due to it seems like it is constantly engaged. When the engine is shut off the pulley will spin but it really drags and its obvious the air gap is not correct. After taking it apart I see this with all the rust (tractor has set for 4-5 years) and the bearing is in the pulley is also bad. My question is can I wire wheel these surfaces to get rid of the rust and clean them up without hurting the mating surfaces? Also, is there anywhere to get the shims for the original clutches?

Thanks, Tom

When adjusted properly it will have drag. It is a built in "braking system" meant to prevent the mower or other attachments from "free wheeling".

[Tom1878]

Originally Posted by darkminion_17

You can clean them up. I would replace the bearing while you are at it. As for the shims, Mc Master Carr may have what you need.

Ok, I figured I could but I wanted to check first. I've got the bearing out and ordered already, I thought about McMaster-Carr but didn't know if the shims were specific or not. Thanks!

[Tom1878]

Originally Posted by ironman

When adjusted properly it will have drag. It is a built in "braking system" meant to prevent the mower or other attachments from "free wheeling".

When the engine was running I took a broken wooden shovel handle and tried to see if it would stop the pulley and it wouldn't, it was turning like the switch was on but it wasn't and I verified there was no power to it at the time. Doing what I did should have stopped the pulley right?

[ironman]

Originally Posted by Tom1878

When the engine was running I took a broken wooden shovel handle and tried to see if it would stop the pulley and it wouldn't, it was turning like the switch was on but it wasn't and I verified there was no power to it at the time. Doing what I did should have stopped the pulley right?

In general, I would say yes.

[Tom1878]

Originally Posted by ironman

In general, I would say yes.

The bearing was in bad shape and with all the rust build up I feel like that was the issue. You could turn it by hand when it wasn't running but it was pretty tight and sounded bad.

[Graflex45]

Originally Posted by Tom1878

The bearing was in bad shape and with all the rust build up I feel like that was the issue. You could turn it by hand when it wasn't running but it was pretty tight and sounded bad.

Was the front plate held by the 4 nuts worn through? The point of that piece is to hold the sprung clutch plate close to the shaft plate at the correct distance and when its disengages it contacts the outside of the plate on the springs to brake the pulley. the opening on the stamped plate is maybe half an inch less than the diameter of the clutch plate on the pulley side

I cleaned and replaced the bearings on mine before winter and wire wheeled it to get rid of the rust. If you have a good precision straight edge hold that over the 2 plates and see if they are badly worn out of true. the cleaner and flatter the 2 surfaces are the better magnetically attached to each other they will be and the less wear they will get from slippage when you engage the pto.

[Tom1878]

Originally Posted by Graflex45

Was the front plate held by the 4 nuts worn through? The point of that piece is to hold the sprung clutch plate close to the shaft plate at the correct distance and when its disengages it contacts the outside of the plate on the springs to brake the pulley. the opening on the stamped plate is maybe half an inch less than the diameter of the clutch plate on the pulley side

I cleaned and replaced the bearings on mine before winter and wire wheeled it to get rid of the rust. If you have a good precision straight edge hold that over the 2 plates and see if they are badly worn out of true. the cleaner and flatter the 2 surfaces are the better magnetically attached to each other they will be and the less wear they will get from slippage when you engage the pto.

It was not worn through, it all didn't look terrible other than the rust from sitting so long. I'm going to clean everything good and reinstall it per the service manual procedure and see what happens

[Graflex45]

If it was spinning the adjustment plate must have been backed off and those bearing must have been very bad if you couldnt get it to stop