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  #1  
Old 02-13-2025, 09:07 AM
Jamocha Jamocha is offline
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Default Removing stuck steering wheel

I have read through a bunch of threads on removing a stuck steering wheel on here and I am still unsuccessful. I have been hitting it with PB Blaster for a few days and I was going to try the following:

attach a bearing separator under the wheel and then place a wheel puller on the steering wheel and thread the bolts from the wheel puller into the bearing separator and tighten it to attempt the removal. If that doesn't work I was going to leave it under tension and soak it with PB Blaster overnight.


Just wanting to see what the community thinks
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  #2  
Old 02-13-2025, 09:50 AM
SDBOB SDBOB is offline
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My little experience. Dont hit down on shaft. I witnessed a box that had been hit hard, the Ross box was broken. I'm working on mine now, soaking,just made a puller havent used it yet. Going to heat the nut on my 100.
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  #3  
Old 02-13-2025, 09:56 AM
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ironman ironman is offline
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I agree with your game plan.
I would also suggest that before you crank down on the puller that you loosely put the nut on to protect from flaring out the end of the shaft, as it is hollow.
After the tension period, before loosening the puller, a sharp whack with a hammer on the pullers shaft may pop the wheel loose.

You might consider making a puller like this....
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File Type: jpg swpuller04.jpg (17.8 KB, 107 views)
File Type: jpg swpuller1.jpg (24.3 KB, 106 views)
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  #4  
Old 02-13-2025, 11:55 AM
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RLause RLause is offline
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A short 3/8" allen head bolt works well to protect the end of the shaft.
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1979 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20, dual hydraulics, power steering and Cat 0 three point
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  #5  
Old 02-13-2025, 09:45 PM
Ambush Ambush is offline
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I use much the same as Ironman. I put 3/4” plywood between the bearing spreader and the spokes to prevent damage. Definitely do as Rlause suggests with the Allen bolt, though I have a slug that fits and keeps the puller bolt centered. Lots of tension and soaking with PB Blaster. A few sharp raps with a hammer whenever you walk by and usually they give.
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File Type: jpg IMG_2680.jpg (26.1 KB, 83 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2681.jpg (26.6 KB, 86 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2679.jpg (34.7 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_2678.jpg (35.2 KB, 86 views)
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  #6  
Old 02-13-2025, 11:18 PM
Jamocha Jamocha is offline
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Hypothetically, if I can’t get this thing off, could I pull the shaft out of the assembly and swap it for another?
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  #7  
Old 02-14-2025, 06:12 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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IIRR, the shaft comes out of the bottom.
They will come off, you just have to believe and be persistent.
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  #8  
Old 02-14-2025, 07:26 AM
Jamocha Jamocha is offline
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Unfortunately, it appears I pushed the nut too much and stripped the threads on the shaft or at least mangled them a little. I could always use a die and cut them a little smaller when I finally get this darn thing off.


I was hoping I could jut pull the shaft out of the assembly casing and swap it with on off a model 73 that I have as a parts CC


My setup to try and remove this dumb wheel is included
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File Type: jpg IMG_1806.jpg (31.0 KB, 80 views)
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  #9  
Old 02-14-2025, 10:06 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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The wheel HAS to come off first, then the shaft and steering box ass'y comes out through the tower at/from the bottom after you remove the two 3/8: bolts from the cross member and remove the drag link.

A quick look at the parts lookup site makes this pretty self-evident.
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  #10  
Old 02-14-2025, 05:56 PM
DSarow DSarow is offline
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If you get the wheel off and you do mess up the threads,one of our talented sponsors,Parts By Jeff advised and recommended to me a way for myself to repair my messed up threads and it worked simply and quickly. A drill and a metric tap inside the shaft.Size,can't remember,ask for Jeff to take over.L.O.L Good luck
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