Newb needs help with 1a Tiller Mount

[Tom1878]

Hey all,
New to the forum but I've been reading and looking for a few months and I can't seem to find what I'm looking for. I recently bought a Cub 1450 with a rear tiller that I'm pretty sure is a 1a (tag is painted over) by the measurements. Well I'm servicing the hydro by changing the fluid and filter and when I pulled the tiller mounting plate off the back cover and removed the back cover I noticed 2 of the bolt holes in the rear end housing that the tiller mount bolts to have started breaking out. I'm worried the weight of the tiller and using the tiller will further the damage and break the holes out in the housing or strip them beyond being able to helicoil. Is there another mount I could use to mount the tiller that I wouldn't have to use the damaged holes for weight bearing purposes? I've been looking at this kit from Xtreme Motorworks but not sure if it is actually right.
https://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Tiller%20Parts.html

I'm just looking for another alternative before I damage the hydro housing to the point it's trash and I have to replace it.

Thanks, Tom

[finsruskw]

Someone has obviously installed bolts that were TOO LONG and that's what has broken the castings' dead ends out.

I think what you are referring to from extreme is an adaptor to mount a 1-A or 2-A to a Cub with the Cat 0 installed, says so right in the description.

[Tom1878]

Originally Posted by finsruskw

Someone has obviously installed bolts that were TOO LONG and that's what has broken the castings' dead ends out.

I think what you are referring to from extreme is an adaptor to mount a 1-A or 2-A to a Cub with the Cat 0 installed, says so right in the description.

They are actually breaking inwards toward the center section, they looked about a 1/4" longer than the others but I'll need to measure them tonight. With the Xtreme attachment I guess I was looking for info from someone that had installed a 1a / 2a tiller onto a Cat 0 with this kit, can't quite visualize how it hooks up.

[ironman]

Perhaps you could fabricate a flat plate of steel and weld it to the top edge of the gear box mounting frame to extend it up to the top two bolts for more strength.

[Tom1878]

Originally Posted by ironman

Perhaps you could fabricate a flat plate of steel and weld it to the top edge of the gear box mounting frame to extend it up to the top two bolts for more strength.

That's kind of what I was thinking, distribute the weight a little better

[finsruskw]

Like I said, the bolts were TOO :LONG and bottomed out, tight against the bottom of the tapped hole, something has got to give in that case.

[Ambush]

Originally Posted by ironman

Perhaps you could fabricate a flat plate of steel and weld it to the top edge of the gear box mounting frame to extend it up to the top two bolts for more strength.

That’s what I did on my tiller mount. I welded ears on top of the tiller mount and used two 3/8” grade eight bolts through the frame on each side. My tiller mount is completely homemade and I since reengineered the whole thing so the pic wont quite match yours. The weight of the tiller is trying to lever the top of the mount away from housing. Tying it to the frame takes most of that stress away from the housing and the bolts holding it to the housing

[Ambush]

You can maybe see it a little better in this pic.

[Tom1878]

Originally Posted by Ambush

That’s what I did on my tiller mount. I welded ears on top of the tiller mount and used two 3/8” grade eight bolts through the frame on each side. My tiller mount is completely homemade and I since reengineered the whole thing so the pic wont quite match yours. The weight of the tiller is trying to lever the top of the mount away from housing. Tying it to the frame takes most of that stress away from the housing and the bolts holding it to the housing

Yep that’s what it’s doing! That helps a lot, thanks!

[Tom1878]

Does anyone know what the proper bolt length is for the rear diff cover?