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#1
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I have power to the ignition and need to start the motor. Key does not activate starter motor. Can I just "jump" the starter until I find the problem? If so, can someone tell me SPECIFICALLY how to do it? THANK YOU
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#2
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First, welcome to OCC..........
![]() It would greatly help if we knew what model of Cub Cadet you are working on. ![]()
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#3
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I should have mentioned the model is a 126. I think I may have a wiring or safety switch issue. I did look at the wiring diagram and hoping I can "jump" the starter...
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#4
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You can take a Jumper Wire from the Positive Battery Terminal to the ORG/BLK wire on the Starter Solenoid to see if the Engine rolls over.
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__________________
[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1: |
#5
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I am BRAND new at this (but am addicted). I have a repair manual on order (and CAN work on cars, trucks, etc) but at this point....I am still trying to figure out how to work on this. I know there is a clutch "safety" switch (which I suspect is the problem) and I cant even see where I access it. Taking it further, I think I can "see" a solenoid under the dash....I tried to pull the steering wheel off (WITH a puller) but the bottom of the steering wheel hub is beginning to buckle. I DID see a great steering wheel puller, which fit the bottom of the steering wheel on 360 degrees, on Youtube.....but I am unable to find the brand name so I can buy one. I absolutely LOVE this old thing..... but now that I am trying to fix things it seems difficult to access different mechanical components. Ive gone to Youtube to watch some videos, but have spent a lot of time watching things that do not apply to what I need to get done.
I did find a wiring diagram on this site. It looks as though I could jump a wire DIRECTLY from the battery to the starter (BECAUSE I CANT REACH THE SOLENOID UNDER THE DASH) to get the motor cranked. Then, at some point, maybe I can find a proper puller for the steering wheel. Regarding the clutch safety switch it (like lots of other things) appears to be within the "tunnel".....and at this point, I am thinking either the dash/steering tower has to come apart OR maybe take the deck off and access things from underneath? . I am sure I appear to be pretty clueless at this point. (I am.) I just am not acclimated to the order of disassembly or how it comes apart. Its like field stripping a Colt 45..... if you know how it seems simple and logical, but if youve never done it its a mystery. |
#6
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Take yer time and when doubt stop and ask the crew here.
Now as far as steering wheels, very few come loose easily. Best to soak the nut and spline area for days with yer favorite penetrating elixir. Most have good luck with bee pee blaster ![]() Then search on here for a ho'made steerin' wheelie puller, it's just some wood 2x4's Also it is advised to not ruin the threads on the hollow steering shaft. Some maybe are a solid shaft but still, excessive pressure will ruin them faster than you can say John Deere me, Er, woo is me! What ever yall do, do not hit them with a hammer cause yall will knock the balls out of the bottom of the steering column. then it is replacement time. You want to solve problems, not create more. ![]() |
#7
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Thanks for your help. Im am going to have to punt with this thing. Two acres are cut...two more to go. Its a '70 #126. First, the clutch stopped disengaging, I brought it in the shop and couldnt even figure out how to work on it. I did take the top guard off, not much help. Im thinking I need to remove the deck. I went online and ordered a manual...then went out and the clutch "worked" again. Then it wouldnt crank. Tried to get the steering wheel off, bought a gear puller, the bottom of the steering wheel hub started to buckle. Then posted a question about "jumping" starter. Went to bed.
Got up this morning, ended up "jumping" starter motor, cut grass for 4 minutes, clutch stopped disengaging again. Guess I have to repair clutch. Went to Youtube trying to find appropriate video Lots of videos have 2-3 minutes of "chitchat" only to find out the subject matter doesnt apply to what I need to know. Like I said, at this point its like field stripping a Colt 45. Before you know how it comes apart, its confusing. Once you see it done, THEN it makes sense. Ive built hotrods and motorcycles....I know at some point I can do it. But at this point I cant even "see" where stuff is or how to access it. Seems like I have to get steering wheel off to get to solenoid. As far as the clutch, I dont even know how to "get" to it (LOL). I will know, but I dont yet know. So, I went to Youtube. Most videos have "chitchat" before the actual useful info. I heard lots of that, then after 2 minutes realize the video covers something else. So now, Im going outside to cut 2 acres of hilly grass with an old pushmower. |
#8
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If you suspect the safety switch on the clutch/brake
lever, you can find that switch looking up under the tractor. Pull the deck off to gain easier access. Since you are having trouble with the clutch it may also be the same problem (whatever it may be) contributing to the starting issue. The tang that depress the safety switch is on that same rod that pulls the clutch lever onto throw out bearing. I would suggest you check/inspect the lever and the bracket (attached to frame) from which the lever pivots. It might have come loose or the pivot pin may be falling out.
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#9
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Pulling the steering wheel would be fruitless even if you did get it off.
Only need to remove that is if you are going to rebuild the sector. Remove the battery to access the solenoid. 1st off, make sure the terminals of everything electrical inclkuding grounds are clean, bright and tight. . You should have juice to the small wire on the solenoid with the key in the start position. This makes contact inside the unit completing the circuit to the starter proper. Make sure the clutch is properly adjusted for smooth operation. Sounds like you would be much better off having bought a later model hydro unit with a bigger deck for that much area. 3 acres is over 3/4 of a city block! I sure would not like even thinking about mowing that much area with a gear drive Cub. Please use some punctuation in your posts, they are a real PITA to read! Good luck |
#10
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Thank you all for the responses, they ARE very helpful. I am hoping my analogy of knowing how to field-stripping a gun helps explain my lack of knowledge.
Well, I suppose I SHOULD have a later model for this much grass but I just always had a soft spot for the old stuff. Still do. I can see where I'm going with this, I'll probably end up with several oldies...pursuing a passion instead of being practical. So I guess the first thing I'll do (after cutting the grass by hand) is take the deck off, then take a good look up there and see what I've got. Start from there. I'm more concerned about the clutch then the cranking issue. And, of course I AM curious.... can I dissassemble the clutch without removing the engine? |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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