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#1
09-21-2021, 07:33 PM
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Tin Talk (overheating)
I have a 123 that runs hot. I mean really hot. I don't know how hot, but too hot. The gas tank is remarkably hot even.
So...I went to find out why. 1) I have NOT taken the tins off (yet) because I'm pretty sure in doing so I'll snap off some bolts, and I don't want to go there (yet). 2) I did notice that the side tin (on the right side) was missing. I fabricated one to ensure that air is ducted along the right side of the cylinder. 3) I noticed that some Kohlers seem to have tins in front of the cylinder as well as on both sides. Is this always the case, or did it change with the size of the engine (and with the sloth of the previous owners?) 4) I did ensure that there's a LOT of air flowing from the fan side of the engine and out the front. While it already was blowing a strong stream of air, I took a narrow (3/16" diameter?) long (8") nozzle blower and spent a lot of time blowing air out of the flywheel end of the engine to the front. No big chunks came out but there appeared to be no obstructions. 5) I did slide a homemade hook back in from the front of the engine trying to see if I could feel or snag any nests . It seemed clean back in there, and again, there's a lot of air moving. Until it really gets hot (which I've not done intentionally or for long, if unitentional) this engine runs great. It's a strong engine with no oil burning and lots of compression. Why is it getting hot? I've purposely adjusted the carb so that the mixture is fat, and it still overheats. I don't see how it could run so perfectly of there was a valve issue but I've been wrong before. Ideas? Thanks for your thoughts. Before I pull the tins (next spring?) I'll make sure I can find my helicoils... :-(
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#2
09-21-2021, 10:05 PM
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The first thing that comes to mind is the fuel mixture is lean but sounds like you have addressed that. My next thought is timing is not set properly?
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1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo.
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#4
09-23-2021, 04:49 PM
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Checked the timing using the Matt G static method, which I've done many times before and works well if you're careful to find JUST the opening point.
Found that point, opened the plug on the flywheel housing and there's a nice "S" right in the middle where it should be. Now, I did find two other things which were hurting things. * The little thumbwheel cutoff on the sediment housing , is loose unless it's unscrewed ALL the way until there's resistance, it rattles itself closed (or almost closed). That's a problem! * The original owner had the wrong spark plug in there, with about half the reach of the correct one. That's now fixed. Tractor runs strong again but is STILL quite warm. Since it does not have the heat shield over the original muffler (which it ALSO doesn't have) I'm thinking enough heat may come up from the front of the cylinder area to cause problems. I may try and make a baffle. and see if that does anything. There are three strong channels of air coming across the top of the head, plus the two ducts on the side of the cylinder. All have considerable airflow. Hmmm.
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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