1440 Project

[JSlezak83]

I recently acquired a 1993 1440 with a dead cylinder. The tractor would fire right up and run on the single cylinder. I noticed that there was exhaust puffs coming from behind the tins on #2, and quite a bit of oil in the crankcase vent. This pointed me too a blown head gasket. Upon tear down, I first discovered that the exhaust pushrod was broken. Further disassembly revealed a very large oily mouse nest packed around the cylinder. The engine overheated and the exhaust valve stuck, displacing the guide.

Ive got a new head on order. I pulled the #1 head while I was in there and removed the carbon. I hope tomorrow to get the #1 cylinder back together after work.

[DeltaCub]

Looks like a fun project. Vanguards are nice engines.

[JSlezak83]

Thanks. Seems people either love these Vanguards or say repower with Kohler. I’m excited to have this thing back together. I was impressed with how it ran on only one cylinder, so I can only imagine how it will be when running properly.

The machine only has 450hrs on it, so I’m hoping for a long future with this tractor. It has the 320 mower deck, 313 bagger, and 451 snow thrower attachment.

I’ve got a disaster of leaves in my yard that I’m holding out on until I get it running. I hope my new head gets here in the next couple days. After that, I’ve got to get a ramp built for my shed, so the 1440 has a nice dry home to live in. The wife’s patients with it in her garage spot is wearing thin.

[Sam Mac]

Hope you pulled the engine and cleaned both sides

[JSlezak83]

Honestly, it probably would have been easier if I just pulled the engine. I was able to get in there and give the flywheel side a good cleaning. I wanted to do a “good enough” job on it and get it running, before sinking too much time and effort into it. The motor was covered in oily, dusty crud. I don’t know if it has ever had the tins were removed and cleaned. Some time in the future, I will probably pull the engine to replace the crank seals.

[JSlezak83]

Well after a couple weeks of getting jerked around by the machine shop, I finally got my head back today. The machinist made a new oversized valve guide and pressed it in. Supposedly cut the valves too. So i’ve got about $125 into this so far.

I got everything reassembled this evening and got ready to fire it up. With the plugs out, I cranked it over a few times in about 15sec bursts. My thought was this would get some oil moving in the engine, and help to fill the float bowl. I put the plugs in and have it a little shot of carb cleaner. Motor fired right up. I had to repeat this cycle a few times before it would run on its own. She’s running smooth as can be now.

Tomorrow after work, I’ll finish up degreasing the frame, throw the side panels on, and hopefully make some grass clippings.

[JSlezak83]

Can anyone tell me what the retorque interval is for the head bolts? I’m going to run for a bit tomorrow and drain the oil. I’ve got a couple quarts of Mobile 1 10W-30 and Briggs 492932 filter for winter use. I want to be sure to retorque the heads so I don’t end up with another blown head gasket.

[V30crewcab]

I would think you should run it, and retorque them hot. that will give it a good seat. should be good then. I doubt they do anything other than initial torque from the factory.

[JSlezak83]

Thought I’d give a little update. Put about 10hrs on the tractor since getting it running. Mounted the snowblower during the one storm we’ve gotten this year. Without any traction aids, clearing my driveway was impossible. Going down was fine, but I couldn’t get back up. I scored some weights and chains on Craigslist, and mounted them up. Not so much as a snowflake since then.

I’ve noticed there is a nice oil spray developing on the snowblower chute, so now I’m really kicking myself in the ass for not changing those crank seals while it was all apart. Looks like I’ll be pulling the motor in the future to address that.

Here she is patiently waiting for some snow.

[V30crewcab]

looks ready