Cub Cadet 3000 Series Hydraulic Tiller

[PauiArthur]

After years of looking for a 190-004 hydraulic tiller for my GT3235, I took a chance on one that I have been looking at for almost a year on eBay and bought it. I say that I took a chance, because 1) while it was never used, it was stored outside during much of its life - It had some surface rust, and 2) it was missing the hydraulic pump, driveshaft, brackets and hoses. Cub Cadet price for all the missing bits was $1,700, but after researching what other options were available, I was able to trim that by well over half – meaning I would have $1,200 - $1,300 in the complete tiller, all in. Not a screaming deal, but good NOS examples of this model tiller have sold for much more.

Well, it arrived in fine shape at Fastenal, but after bringing it home the nasty surprises started. Right off, I noted that the 3/4” hydraulic oil return fitting was rusted beyond use, including the sealing surface. Obviously, the protective cap was left off at some point, leading to…

… an oil storage tank filled with rust. The oil storage tanks on these tillers are huge (you start by adding 6 GALLONS of hydraulic oil), running the length of the tiller body with a welded in pick-up tube, a recess and a fill tower. The water let in by the open fitting caused so much rust that dragging a stick of wood across the tank bottom through the oil fill opening resulted in the bottom of the stick being completely covered with rust. It would be impossible to clean it all out. And as the hungry Eaton sucks directly from this tank – no filter is between the tank & pump; the filter is before the tank – a destroyed pump would be the result of using it like this.

I contacted the seller and he immediately refunded the full purchase price, leaving me with a very heavy, very unusable, lump in my garage. What to do?

My first thought was to cut it open, clean out the rust, install a new fitting, fabricate a new pick-up tube and weld it all back together. After coming up with a number of possible ways for that plan to go astray (along with just not wanting to do all that work), I decided on another option.

That second option presented itself after I learned that new tiller frames are still available. My favorite Cub Cadet dealer gave me a super price on one, $700, $100 more than the $600 I paid for (and was given back by the seller) the rusted lump o’ tiller. The rest of the main tiller components are all there and in good condition, needing only a little touch up here n’ there. I would be only $100 over the total price that I had set as a target, and after getting the new tiller frame and hanging all the components from da-lump on it, I would have a clean & factory fresh tiller. I ordered the new tiller frame and it was indeed still available. It’s now sitting in my garage and I will be swapping the parts over – most of the parts to hang and hook up the pump are now on order.

My one remaining decision is what way to go with the pump driveshaft, as I immediately dismissed buying the OEM driveshaft, due to the $450 plus price tag.

Using a standard deck drive shaft is possible after cutting it down to the proper length. Needed would be a 7/8” to 3/4” reducer and a 3/16” keyway cut into the rear yoke. For that route I would have to spend $125 on a used driveshaft. Unfortunately, the quality on used shafts varies.

Also possible is to spend $200 and assemble a new one. The shaft could be built around smaller diameter driveshaft tube, common size yokes and u-joints. The 15-spline coupling could be incorporated in front with the correct .75” keyed yoke at the rear. This would be a nice way to go, as all parts would be new and common – the Spicer joints can be had for $12 a throw.

Will post again when I have something to see.