Trunnion questions into the hydro?

[three4rd]

I have gotten mixed responses on this. I have the typical problem of the two lower corners being worn. Not having welding capability, I was wondering if there are other options. I see a retaining snap at the opposite end of the shaft, but also see several seals as well as a bearing needle. I'd gladly replace part #SU3103181P (tron shaft) if it doesn't involve additional transmission disassembly, since that would likely also entail seal replacement. I ordered new compression springs and end caps, thinking it'd probably be a good idea to replace them. Thanks...

[darkminion_17]

You have to remove the pump and take it apart to remove the trunnion.
Search trunnion here and see the results.

[three4rd]

OK Thanks. That's what I assumed, so the mechanic who is putting together an engine for me must be referring to a different part or else misunderstood what I was talking about. Having never done much work on the trunnion myself, however, I wasn't certain. Out of curiosity, though, I checked on prices for that shaft...around $200. Pretty crazy.

[ol'George]

Your lucky today,
My crystal ball that tells me what you are working on,
is slightly clearer than mud.
So I am assuming you might be working on
a Sunstrand 15 series hydro, if so,
you can replace
3 out of the 4 seals.
Input charge pump,
output shaft,
and the trunion shaft opposite the actuation lever/springs, without taking the hydro apart.

[athomas]

If you have no welding provisions I'd try some good epoxy repair to the worn areas and take a file/die grinder and shape back to fit the spring and guide pins if I'm on the right track with what you are describing , a pic of the area in question may be of some help in trying to give some ideas !

[Yosemite Sam]

Find yourself a little "Mom and Pop" body shop, take the trans (out of the tractor) to the shop a little before closing time... One of the younger fellows there would be more than happy to weld the corners for you, probably for a six pack of their favorite beverage.

Less than 15 seconds of actual weld time is about all it will take. Take it back home and file the corners square again and you should be good to go.

Yes, as long as you are already there, replace the springs and ends. Keep in mind that the outer spring will not make contact with the ends unless you're actually moving the F/R lever.

Follow instructions in the manual to make your adjustments.

If this is your first one, take your time and adjust it right, it can be a little time consuming but the results will be well worth your efforts.

[three4rd]

athomas....I already bought some JB Weld, having gotten advice from others that it might work (although probably a temporary fix from what I hear as well).

Sam...right now the transaxle is separated from the tractor. This was done primarily to replace the cork gasket. Then, of course, I noticed that the trunnion really needs some work as well. So, when you refer to transporting the trans, I assume you mean the entire rear? Or to disassemble further and just take the part of the trans that would be needed to access the shaft? Another issue is that I don't have any sort of trailer or pick-up. Never had any of this stuff apart before either and so somewhat 'flying by the seat of my pants', so-to-speak. Will check the manual for more detail.

Thanks for the helpful suggestions...much appreciated

[cubs-n-bxrs]

Are you anywhere near Syracuse NY.

[athomas]

If your replacing the cork gasket then the hydro would be seperated from the transaxle and you could take the hydro unit to be welded ! I just clamp a copper bar on the underside ( weld doesn't stick to copper) weld in the corners as needed and grind it back to shape as mentioned before takes a few minutes to make the actual repair !

[three4rd]

Yeah but to do the gasket all I basically did was pull the pump which did not include the tron shaft. Obviously I had to take the cam plate off but the rest of the trans remained attached to the rear axle.