Static Timing

[_DX3_]

OK, got the new stator on, put the flywheel on, torqued down. Had to get new points, installed those, and gapped at .020 per the manual. I couldn't get the computer in the shop to open the static timing page Matt has, but I was pretty sure I remembered the steps. I used the VOM and turned the crank and when the VOM went to 0 I stopped turning the crank. Checked the window and the "T" was dead center. Now I know it was either the T or the S that needed to be centered but that is the part I could not remember. No I didn't have time to run in here and check the laptop, I had to get everything cleaned up and put up so I could get ready for an appointment this evening. But while I am eating I am sitting here and looked up the procedure on the laptop and I see that the "S" is what is supposed to be centered. Now my question is, just how bad off is the timing and will the adjustment be able to compensate for that much rotation of the flywheel to get the S to be centered in the window. I am going to try to do the adjustment when I get back home late tonight, but just wanted to see if anyone had some comments on this and or if there might be some serious wear to the push rod?

[bigdaddyjak]

T stands for Top dead center, so its gonna be off

[Matt G.]

If you had the 'T' mark centered, the timing is 20 degrees off and it will never run. The push rod is probably worn, but if the engine was running...it must have been working before.

[_DX3_]

The motor ran good, tho, it was hard to start. But once started I even mowed with it. Something else to add to my growing list of needs to do and buy, LOL. Changing the rod is just a matter of pulling the old one out and putting the new one in?

[Yosemite Sam]

Yes, take the points off and pull the old rod out.

Check the difference between the new one (rod) and the old one.

If the "T" is in the center of the "window" now, then you may have a hard time getting the "S" centered in there the way it is, 20 degrees is a loooong way.

Then again (I have never seen it myself (on a Kohler)) you could have a sheared flywheel key.

[_DX3_]

The flywheel key is good, I had the flywheel off installing a new stator. This is why I asked for input, because it all seems to be put together correctly, but something is obviously way out of whack LOL... Is there a difference in points? I did get the correct number from the cub website and I went the the NAPA book with them and the number correlated correctly with their part number also.

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by _DX3_

I had the flywheel off installing a new stator.

Yeah, I'm sorry. If I wasn't such a knucklehead I would have remembered that.

[_DX3_]

Was thinking about the way I had checked my timing while I was gone, and decided that the reading I got was from allowing the crank to continue to roll forward due to compression. I pulled the spark plug out and redid the procedure and lo and behold, the "S" was perfectly centered in the window. I was able to roll the crank with my hands and perfectly get it to stop by rolling it back and forth and finding the exact spot where the points just started opening as seen on the VOM. Sorry for all the inconvenience, but just couldn't understand what I had did wrong, now I know and will not make that mistake in the future. Of all the cubs I have owned I never knew you could set the timing, so this was my first. Many thanks for those of you that put a lot of work and effort into procedures and patiently answering questions from those of us that are still learning. CHEERS!!

[_DX3_]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

Yeah, I'm sorry. If I wasn't such a knucklehead I would have remembered that.

See my last post for knuckleheadedness LOL... No problem with your post.