1961 Farmall Cub

[twoton]

Looking for something a bit bigger than my 1650 to mow the rougher areas at work and came across this;

https://newlondon.craigslist.org/grd/6105186191.html

Any thoughts on value and what to look for if I go and check it out would be appreciated.

[R Bedell]

In my neck of the woods, I see $2500 a lot.

[rbarri2]

They are pretty common down in this part of the country. That´s a $800-1200 machine here.

[cadzag72]

Looks pretty reasonable, important thing to note is that cubs don't have a live PTO, it's running when the clutch is up and off when it's pushed in. If your mower is big enough, it can end up driving you along even after you push the clutch in. Practice a bit before you get into a tight spot and end up with nowhere to go. For weak spots, check the front casting for cracks. Now go get yourself a cub!

[twoton]

Originally Posted by R Bedell

In my neck of the woods, I see $2500 a lot.

Yeah, most of what I see around here is asking 2500 - 4000.

Originally Posted by rbarri2

They are pretty common down in this part of the country. That´s a $800-1200 machine here.

Be nice if I could get a good one for that!

Originally Posted by cadzag72

Looks pretty reasonable, important thing to note is that cubs don't have a live PTO, it's running when the clutch is up and off when it's pushed in. If your mower is big enough, it can end up driving you along even after you push the clutch in. Practice a bit before you get into a tight spot and end up with nowhere to go. For weak spots, check the front casting for cracks. Now go get yourself a cub!

Thanks for the advice Ian, this ones not to far from you!

p.s. how's the baby?

[john hall]

Originally Posted by cadzag72

Looks pretty reasonable, important thing to note is that cubs don't have a live PTO, it's running when the clutch is up and off when it's pushed in. If your mower is big enough, it can end up driving you along even after you push the clutch in. Practice a bit before you get into a tight spot and end up with nowhere to go. For weak spots, check the front casting for cracks. Now go get yourself a cub!

Some of the single blade mowers for Cubs had an overrunning clutch built in the deck. Not only would it allow you to stop, you can shift gears without waiting on the deck to stop.

Cubs are notorious for the spindles being broken where it is welded to the axle, a lot of them have been re-welded/reinforced. No big deal if it has. Also, as mentioned, the main casting on the front end will get cracked, normally on the bottom. Also, check where the block bolts to the front casting, the mounting ears on the block can crack--look for an oil leak here or evidence of welding. Somebody makes an aftermarket brace that runs from there back to the clutch housing. Look on top of your cylinder head for a crack/leak/weld--this is generally a freeze break.

With a 48" single blade mower, you can cut some pretty tall grass. If you ever decide to put a 60" 3 blade mower under it, lets just say the performance sucks compared to almost any lawnmower--there just ain't enough HP under the hood, yet there's a gazillion of them with those decks.

[CubDieselFan]

500-1000 in my area. Most do them have the rears welded or brazed on.

[cadzag72]

Baby is good and healthy, thanks for asking! He'll be 7 months on Saturday. His appetite has curtailed any cub-buying for at least a little while, this boy can eat! we'll just make do with the lo-boy for now and borrow grandpa's cub when we need a sickle bar. Haven't given him his first tractor ride yet, but he's not afraid of the noise so that's a good sign!

[twoton]

Thanks all, I appreciate the info!

[Oak]

I picked this non-running 1949 Cub up for $800 about 10 years ago. Put about $400 in parts & tires in it, got it running, played around with it and sold it for $1200 a few years later.
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