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Old 05-26-2010, 10:30 PM
cledford cledford is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 92
Default Electric PTO assembly: how to know if bad? How to rehab?

I took a complete electric PTO assembly off the 1250 I'm playing with. It is complete - but since the tractor does not run and most wiring messed up, missing or cut, I don't know how to determine if the PTO is bad, serviceable, or possible even in good shape…. Not pictured is the coil part, but it is in at least as good, if not better condition than the one I just took of a tractor that I know worked.

This PTO, unlike the one that came off the working tractor (working ion the sense that both tractor and PTO work), readily came apart into 2 pieces when I pulled it off. I soaked both of these pieces in evapo-rust (they were fairly heavily rusted) and the rust and most of the paint came off. The evapo-rust is essentially an organic, enzyme based liquid remover. The enzymes "eat" the rust (and organic based paints), but the liquid is harmless to most everything else and for the most part is h2o. The issue I didn't consider was the bearing in the center of the hub. It turned freely before the evapo-rust, but was slightly seized after. I was able to get it turning freely once again, but I realized that it looks like a pressed in bearing and I don't see any way of re-greasing it.

Could someone go over with me what to do to assess and test a PTO for serviceability and what, if anything to do about lubricating the hub bearing? Also, when, is the PTO deemed caput? If it is done, are there any parts worth keeping/reclaiming or should they all just be tossed?

Thanks for any help,

-Calvin

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Old 05-26-2010, 11:36 PM
Matt G.'s Avatar
Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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Pry the seal out of the bearing with a very small screwdriver, wash it out with mineral spirits, and pack some grease in it, and replace the seal. Leave some air space in there, or it'll come out the seal. To test the coil, just put your VOM on the ohms setting, and put one lead on the coil wire and the other on the backing plate. The resistance should be 4-8 ohms or so. I'd save the parts even if something is bad. The coil can be rewound if you're ambitious, and the other parts do wear out occasionally. The usual failure mode is the coil developing a short or open circuit, but sometimes the bearings get bad, too. The bearing can be replaced.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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