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#1
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Waiting on clutch pedal return spring and clutch return rod spring for a 102, but was wondering what tools might be best to use to muscle these springs into place while tractor is still together? Deck has been removed.
I have vise grips, large screw driver(s), small crow bar(12"), but can't think of what else could possibly help. ![]() Your opinions of what tool(s) or best way lying under tractor that works best, from those who've done this. I've been busted in mouth before from flying springs, so it wouldn't be a new experience. Del
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'67 Cub Cadet 102 w/Kohler 10 '90 Kut Kwick CL20-60 w/Onan 20 Performer '03 Craftsman GT5000 w/B&S 24 ELS |
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#2
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vise grips in some situations. But I've been known to tie a strong string/line around the loose end of the spring and using that piece of line to pull the spring into position. Then cut the line off.
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#3
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Lots of ways to do this. My preferred method to get a spring on, if there's room, is obviously hook one end, then wrap mechanics wire or some sort of stronger wire/rope around the other end and have a t handle to pull it with, made with a screwdriver or bar, etc. I actually have a t handle hook tool that is made just for this job. Hope this helps, be careful of that stored energy, it's rough as you know to get hit with one of those.
Edit:Frank beat me by 3 minutes, but.........what he said
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
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#4
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Thanks guys, hadn't thought of the string/wire method. That sounds like good, extra leverage to have.
Del
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'67 Cub Cadet 102 w/Kohler 10 '90 Kut Kwick CL20-60 w/Onan 20 Performer '03 Craftsman GT5000 w/B&S 24 ELS |
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#5
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I have not been disfigured by a flying spring. First off, make sure you have a block of wood to prop the clutch pedal up,you can go about this 2 ways, use a lock pliers, or use the screw driver method, or do the same as others have prescribed.
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Up to 534 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
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#6
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Long wire, double or triple wrap if needed, stay out of the line of fire should something go wrong. I was once pushing a spring (not pulling) using vise grips. It slipped out and shot back embedding the loop end in my hand--ouch!
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
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#7
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That is the way I've done it on a Cyclops. Maybe a variation will work on the older machine?
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#8
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Hold the pedal up with a bunge cord, then needle nose pliers, vicegrip needle nose, old screw drivers heated and bent on the end, cotter pin puller, etc.
You have to be part Macguyver to work on these old tractors. Randy
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2 original cub cadets ![]() 1 100's 2 149's 1 73 1 2182 |
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#9
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I'm wondering if drum brake spring pliers would help. Just a thought...
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#10
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Tried brake spring pliers on a Quietline once to no avail. Never tried on a narrow frame.
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Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade |
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