Mechanical PTO Rebuild

[labrati]

Well, looks like a rebuild is going to be in order.. was mowing tonight.. and after disengaging the PTO it wouldn't reengage.. ...

found this! YIKES!

Can someone tell me what the set screws are? So I can pull the clutch...

thanks

oh.. note the little (looks like a spring clip) to the left and just below the left hand throw out plate!

[wshytle]

There are three 1/4" holes around the perimeter of the pto pulley. There are coresponding slots in the basket pulley to access the set screws. You have to put pressure on the thrust button to release the pto pulley and turn it until the slots line up with the holes. I use the pto lever on the tractor which can be difficult but works for me. I push and turn at the same time. It usually doesn't take much. A gear puller will work too. Once you get the holes lined up you should find two set screws per hole. Now's a good time for a little PB Blaster or the equivilant. First out will be a very short set screw then a longer one which should have a pointed end. Once all six are out the fun begins. I use a long, blunt punch to tap the pto pully NOT the basket pulley. I run the punch in down by the points cover at as much angle as I can get. Tap then turn and repeat this until you notice it becoming loose from the bearing. Don't hit the punch hard, just tap and turn. I have gotten very stuborn ptos off using this method. Use a little patience as well.

If you're lucky you'll find two jam nuts behind the pto that held that loose bolt. I did once myself.

Good luck!

[labrati]

Originally Posted by wshytle

There are three 1/4" holes around the perimeter of the pto pulley. There are coresponding slots in the basket pulley to access the set screws. You have to put pressure on the thrust button to release the pto pulley and turn it until the slots line up with the holes. I use the pto lever on the tractor which can be difficult but works for me. I push and turn at the same time. It usually doesn't take much. A gear puller will work too. Once you get the holes lined up you should find two set screws per hole. Now's a good time for a little PB Blaster or the equivilant. First out will be a very short set screw then a longer one which should have a pointed end. Once all six are out the fun begins. I use a long, blunt punch to tap the pto pully NOT the basket pulley. I run the punch in down by the points cover at as much angle as I can get. Tap then turn and repeat this until you notice it becoming loose from the bearing. Don't hit the punch hard, just tap and turn. I have gotten very stuborn ptos off using this method. Use a little patience as well.

If you're lucky you'll find two jam nuts behind the pto that held that loose bolt. I did once myself.

Good luck!

Actually, I was missing one whole set of set-screws, and it appears (I'll look closer) there were only one set. But yes I found the jam nuts in the pulley basket, and what I thought was a snap ring was the PTO bearing dust cover!....

[labrati]

I had no issue turning the PTO assembly by hand what-so-ever.. no pressure needed on the button.. it wasn't hard to turn at all.. but.. I think it was/is pretty much toast.

The friction disk has a crack in it.. and I'm thinking the bearing looks a little worse for the wear? This doesn't look too awful difficult... what should I replace, what should I clean up etc.. tricks, tips, cautions greatly appreciated...

thanks

[labrati]

How does one go about removing the PTO bearing and collar? I've removed the bearing collar set screw.. but she's on there tight...

thanks..

also any info on parts suppliers would be appreciated..

Looks like my list will be

PTO Bearing and Collar
Compression Springs
Pressure Plate
Friction Disk
Snap ring
Anti-Rattle Springs (all 3 missing)
set of set screws (one complete set missing)
Thrust Button
Wear Button

I haven't checked the pressure plate for warp yet.. I guess if it's true I could just clean that up.. I'll clean up the pulley assembly etc.. Considering taking the basket pulley off while I'm in there and cleaning it and giving it a coat of paint... any thoughts on that?

thanks

[wshytle]

To get the collar and bearing off you need to remove the nut and set screw from the collar. Off to the side of the set screw hole is another hole that is for a small punch. As you face the front of the tractor you want to "punch" the collar clockwise. This is opposite the way the engine turns when running. It shouldn't take much to loosen the collar. Once loose it should slide back a tad on the crank and clear the bearing. Everything should come off now but may need a little help by tapping the backside of the bearing. This is another place for some PB Blaster. Once off you should clean the crank with a fine emery cloth.

As far as your list goes you only need a couple of things. The pressure plates should be fine. I clean mine up on a 4" stationary belt sander. The main spring and clutch disk will be in the kit. The bearing, collar, buttons (wear and thrust), set crews, and any separate parts for the pto are to be ordered individually.

I also take a 1/4-20 tap and clean out all three set screw holes while you have it in your hand. You'll see some fine, rusty crap come out.

Leave the snap ring alone unless it's broken or obviously in need of replacement. Take some steel wool and clean the inside of the pto casting the goes on the crank and has the snap ring. After painting I put a very thin coat of grease in this area and on the crank upon installation.

If you can get the basket pulley off with little trouble now would be a good time to clean and paint it. They are prone to surface rust on the backside; this is one of the areas the paint gun never reaches after installtion.

Be sure and paint the parts to the pto too. I paint everything but the face of the thrust button and the chrome (nickel) bolts. Try not to get paint on the inside that slides over the crank or in the set screw holes.

Good luck once more.....Wayne

[johncub7172]

Thats one thing I have not got around to do yet is figure out why the pto stays engauged.

[Matt G.]

Don't paint the parts of the clutch casting and pressure plate that are in contact with the friction disc, either...those areas need to be bare steel.

[MBounds]

Librati: On reassembly, I recommend that you coat all metal-to-metal contact parts with Anti-Sieze (not on your clutch plates or disc!). That way they won't rust up if you ever have to again remove the PTO Clutch. Also, make sure you correctly follow the IH instructions for reinstalling that Bearing with the Self Locking Collar!

JohnCub: The PTO clutch is engaged when assembled. The Wear Button presses on the Thrust Button to DISengage the clutch. This is why you should try to avoid running the engine with the PTO disengaged when possible---wear on those buttons.

[wshytle]

Thanks Matt, I should have made that a little more clear I guess. There I go assuming again. I do try and get paint on the inside of the rear pressure plate that isn't in contact with the disc; it's the portion where the bolts go through to accept the jam nuts on the backside. It is always rusty and I think the way this thing spins it will sling rust particles out towards the disc. I've noticed if these things sit for a year or so which isn't uncommon and someone goes to use them that's when the rust will sling. That's also why the pto always comes off when I get a tractor here and begin work to get it running. I've seen so many with rust caked between the pressure plates and the disc.

Here's one I'm assembling today. It could use a little more paint but some is better than none. I hope it can be seen well enough.