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#1
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I recently purchased a 3235 w/23 hp Koehlor, 54” deck, and 440 hrs showing on the hr meter. I bought it off a local IH Equipment Superstore for a pretty good price. $1200.00 Before I bought it I noticed the usual. Worn deck parts-bushings and idler pully….Nothing I couldn’t replace. Everything else seemed fine, so I bought it. After replacing the worn deck parts, I trailered it to where I was going to mow. First thing I noticed when backing it off the trailer, it freewheeled down the ramps. No back pressure in reverse. Also when its cold, the reverse is slow and doesn’t work like it does when its warmed up. Now it seems as though the steering isn’t as smooth as it was when I got it….Its getting harder to turn…Jerky….I’ve only mowed a few acres with it and am now wondering if I should have bought this thing. Hopefully it is something obvious that I’m overlooking.
I downloaded the service manual for 3000 series Cubs thinking that there would be some troubleshooting info. It basically tells you how to take everything apart and put back together. It also explains how to check pressure, but I don’t have pressure gages. The mower runs good in forward, and only is slow in reverse when cold. Once it warms up, reverse works fine like i stated…..It just has the freewheeling issue and is getting harder to steer. The steering issue is bothering me worse, though….I’ve checked the obvious…The hydraulic oil is full and looks clear and clean…I need to check to see if the filter is the right one and maybe I can tell if its ever been changed….Maybe someone put the wrong one on, who knows? Could there be a bypass valve that is limiting the amount of flow to the power steering? Can there be an issue with the freewheeling release rod/valve that I’m over-looking? I’m at a loss here since this is my first conventional hydrostat. I have a JD zero turn that I personally use. It has given me Zero problems…. The 3235 I bought is to mow a grass runway at a Radio Control flying club I belong to. So I need to get this running right so it doesn’t give any of the members fits when they try to mow. Any help on the steering issue would be greatly appreciated. Thanks 2Biz |
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#2
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I'll chime in and mention that before I changed out my trans filter, I had no hydraulics and no reverse. It would randomly move forward a few feet at a time, but you couldn't make it go on command. Put a new filter on and it was like a new trans was dropped in.
Even though the fluid on the stick may look ok, I would suggest doing a complete filter and fluid change. The steering and reverse gear behavior sounds like you may have some contaminants in the system. BTW, that's a heckuva machine to mow an R/C airstrip. I hope your flying buds appreciate it. I would have just gotten them a Yard Machine off Craigslist, lol.:biggrin2.gif: |
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#3
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Thanks for responding!
You hit the nail on the head. I stopped tonight and picked up a filter and oil....Changed it out and it runs like a new one! No more reverse issue and I can spin the sterering wheel with the palm of my hand. Amazing the difference that made. Looked like the filter might have been original. It had rust on the unfinsihed area around the o-ring....The past few days I did some extensive research on an oil substitute and decided to go with Rotella T 15-40....I wasn't thilled about putting $13 a quart oil in this thing if it had issues other than just an oil and filter change. I have a 727 JD Zero Turn that the manual states to use 15-40 and its been flawless for 6 years and 200 hrs! Same principal, right? Funny you mention the Yard Machine :biggrin2.gif: Thats what 85% of the members wanted to buy...A new 46"-48" hydro that Sears was selling for $1399.....I stuck to my guns and refused to get anything in that category....So I found this jewel and decided to buy it....Keep in mind I wouldn't trade my JD Z-Trak for it....But it will be more than we need to mow our strip! Thanks again for the response. Maybe it will help others with the same issues... |
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#4
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Rotella is great oil, but one thing to be aware of is that the Command twins like to bend pushrods if too thick oil is used; the hydraulic lifters pump up. I would have stuck with 10W-30.
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#5
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Sorry, I should have been more clear....We were talking about the Hydraulics and not the engine. I substituted Rotella 15w-40 for the CC Plus stuff....I couldn't see spending $13 a quart for the OEM oil if there were other issues in the pump. Since my JD Z-trak uses 15-40 in the Hydro, I figured it should be fine. And it is.....Works great now....
The engine oil looked good so I decided not to change it right away. I will be putting 10w-30 (Penzoil) in it like the manual states.....Thanks for the input though, its appreciated!
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#6
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Whoa, hold on...I would not recommend using anything other than the correct fluid in the rearend. Motor oil is not hydraulic fluid. Since you've now discovered there are no other issues, I'd put the correct stuff in there. It may cause new problems later on, otherwise.
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#7
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I guess your machine could be a guinea pig to see what happens with Rotella in the trans. If you don't like the Cub price for hydro fluid, your machine may have preferred at least the Traveller® brand from Tractor Supply. It is around $9 a quart. Many Cub owners will tell you not to use anything but the Hy-Tran stuff. The Traveller container lists CASE/Hy-Tran Ultra as one of the fluids it can replace.
For my Cub, this stuff is just in here to flush out 20+ years of gook, then I'll do one more filter and get the good stuff in there.
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#8
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It's kind of strange to me that people would be against the Hy-trans Ultra. It's less than $40 for 2 1/2 gallons(10 quarts) of the stuff around here.
__________________
Shawn Cub Newbie 1811 And always....
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#9
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His newer machine takes a more expensive synthetic fluid, and is NOT the same as the Hytran we use in our older machines.
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#10
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Correct....The 3235 has a newer style pump in it similar to what's in my JD 727a Zero Turn, so it doesn't use oil like the Hy-Trans. The Hy-Trans is for older hydrostats. I copied a chart off JD's website that show's their oil recommendations. Some of the older Z-turns use a 0w-40 synthetic, but all the newer models use 15w-40 standard SAE....Non Synthetic....I can see a benefit to going with synthertic over standard if you were using the mower to plow or push dirt. But if you are just mowing, the standard oil will do just fine. I'll be the guinea pig! :-)
I've read other posts online from guys running Rotella T 15w-40 in their newer Cubs Tranny"s...No complaints after hundreds of hrs....If I can find any of the links where I read this, I'll post them here later. |
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