Best method for removing set screws in PTO on Cub 102 ??

[prlwpod]

Greetings- Before I do any irreparable damage to the PTO, what is the recommended method for removing the three (or more) set screws. I've thus far blasted them with brake parts cleaner followed by 120 PSI through the air nozzle just to remove the excess debris. Then sprayed and soaked each one with Kroil, and that's where I've stopped. My concern is that if the hex is slighly worn or stripped , I don't want to make it any worse. What method/s do you use to extract the hex head screws? Thanks, Paul in Providence

[Yosemite Sam]

I think most of the guys will agree that starting with a new, good quality 1/8" allen wrench is about as good of frontal assault as any.

If that doesn't work out for you, there will be about as many secondary strategies as there are members here.

There should be 2 (two) set screws per hole.

Good luck

[Alvy]

Mark has solid advice as always. I will add that upper set screws are shortys and lower set screws are longer and pointed. Go a little at a time. If they break free then get tight again, run them back in and out and have patience.
The exposed threads are always rusted and need some finess. Also please don't ever use the "ball" type Allen wrench ends, yeah they snap off immediately, not going to say how I know.

[Yosemite Sam]

Mike is exactly right about out a little and back in a little. If you spend 45 minutes on each one... SO WHAT, that's nothing compared to the time and aggravation you'll spend if you strip one out.

I will also add that you really want to do your best to get the allen wrench as far into the set screw cavity as you can. I always try to get some kind of pick down into each one and clean as much crud out of there as possible, then blow it out the best you can. Then tap the allen wrench in as deep as it will go.

Spending more time preparing to remove the screw is also much better than drilling one out.

[johncub7172]

For what's it worth, the majority of the confortation for the first three set screws will be the amount of baked on dirt along the walls of the well. When these are clean, its much easier to remove those stubborn set screws. I use a .22 cal. gun bore brush of the metal bristle, a fixed to my drill motor. Good luck!

[Nailhead]

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

Spending more time preparing to remove the screw is also much better than drilling one out.

What do you do if drilling doesn't work?

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Nailhead

What do you do if drilling doesn't work?

It takes a high quality drill bit, slow speed and plenty of lubricant to drill them out. I'm a machinist and had one strip in the first 125 I purchased. Let just say there liberal use of the "universal adjective"

I use KROIL to clean and as a penetrant. Compressed air ( wear safety glasses and ear plugs ) plus a pick works. Johncub's suggestion of a .22 caliber bore brush is a very good idea.

[Nailhead]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

It takes a high quality drill bit, slow speed and plenty of lubricant to drill them out. I'm a machinist and had one strip in the first 125 I purchased. Let just say there liberal use of the "universal adjective"

I use KROIL to clean and as a penetrant. Compressed air ( wear safety glasses and ear plugs ) plus a pick works. Johncub's suggestion of a .22 caliber bore brush is a very good idea.

I tried a new cobalt bit & got essentially nowhere, with plenty of oil. Right now, I'm thinking a .50 S&W right into the front of the SOB would be as effective as anything.

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by Nailhead

I tried a new cobalt bit & got essentially nowhere, with plenty of oil. Right now, I'm thinking a .50 S&W right into the front of the SOB would be as effective as anything.

I'll help, check out your thread.

Jeff

[Nailhead]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

I'll help, check out your thread.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff.