1282 project

[olds45512]

I have some time today to tinker with the 1282 I got in KY last weekend, i got it running easy enough but the connecting rod sounds like its about to add some extra ventilation to the block so its coming apart. the guy i got it from rebuilt the engine a few years ago and gave me all the receipts so i know for a fact he didn't put a new con rod in it and i know he put the balance gears back in so i guess im going to pull it apart and rebuild it the right way. before i tear it down i wanted to check out the charging system to make sure its functioning properly so i don't get it all back together and need more parts, here is the readings i got and would like to hear some opinions as I'm far from an expert when it come to this style charging system.

35.2 vac coming from the stator
16.7 vdc coming from the rectifier
14.7 vdc at the batt

all readings were done at wot.

[olds45512]

ok so i have the engine out and apart on the table, the guy that sold it to me provided receipts for what was done to the engine which show a new .010 piston, valves and gasket kit. when i got the engine apart it has a std piston with about a 1/16" of slop inside the bore, the valves look horrible and the combustion chamber is full of carbon and oil. i think somebody fibbed a little bit and i will be filing a complaint with paypal to hopefully recover some of my money.

now heres the interesting part, none of the paperwork shows a con rod but the rod in this engine has a hole in it and someone correct me if im wrong but doesnt that mean its .010 under? been a while since ive been inside on of these so my memory isnt the best, i guess if its already .010 i will be ordering a .020 con rod for the rebuild.

[olds45512]

Here's some pics after I pulled the head, I had to scrap the piston with a razor blade to be able to read the size.

[J-Mech]

16.7V at the rectifier and 14.7V at the battery is a little odd. Should be basically the same. You shouldn't be losing 2V between the rectifier and the battery. Should be closer to 14.7 at the rectifier.


As far as a hole in the connecting rod.... you mean the lube hole? The little one that faces the cam? They all have that. If it has a STD piston, it's not likely the rod has been changed.



Maybe the guy got taken for at a shop as far as the rebuild.. Or maybe he kept the "new" motor. Who knows.

[olds45512]

It has a small hole right next to the casting numbers.

[bocephus1991]

Sorry to hear about your 1282! That would tick me off, but its likely the guy got taken buy the rebuilder. That's just not right. At least now you'll know what's been done! I didn't think the newer mag 12's had balance gears. Keep us posted!

[jaynjeep]

Tim

I never heard that about the hole meaning undersize.. best thing to do is measure the crank.. a cheap dial micrometer will get you close enough to check the size..

AC voltage sounds about right if I remember correctly.. 16.7 is a bit high and you shouldn't loose that much between the batt and rectifier.. better ohm out the wire and see if you have a bunch of resistance somewhere

I bet the rebuilder took the poor guy for a ride

Have fun with it!!

[ol'George]

The hole you are talking about and the location does indicate .010 rod.
@ least on a kohler rod as noted in the mag 18 service manual, I don't know if this applies to a single cyl. but the pix shows a dipper on the rod cap and magnum twins don't use dippers, so I would think it is a .010 rod,and they used a generic pix for illustration as is common.
Possibly the po. was confused as to a .010 over bore vs a .010 rod
A mic. will tell you, and the knock could be a piston to wall issue, measurements will tell the tale.

[olds45512]

my kit has been ordered, hopefully it gets here fast so i can get it to the machine shop and with any kind of luck have it back together next weekend. does anybody know where to get flex disks for the driveshaft on the cheap?

[mjsoldcub]

get mine at the IH dealer....think theyre like 14 bucks a piece...??