1440 Broken Trans Bolts - Easy Out Warning

[CubyFan]

I've been waiting too long to fix a 1440 with 4 broken Trans bolts. Runs like a top but the trans actually rocked back and forth when on the move. Pulled the trans today and wrestled it into the drill press. Drilled all four bolts. First one came out effortlessly with the easy out but the second one wouldn't budge. Torqued it so much I decided I might break the easy out in the hole (been there). I drilled it out to fit the largest possible easy out. Put a big wrench on it, still didn't budge. Torqued it so hard it the force pushed out on the edges of the hole and cracked a piece out of the trans case. The last 2 put up a struggle but came out ok. I plan to re-tap the hole and put a new bolt in. It should be ok strength wise because it is on top, has plenty of room for threads, and I have a set of the SAMMAC/Xtreme brackets ready to go on.

Definitely operator error on the easy out-don't use them much. Sam had suggested welding a nut on the broken bolt. I tried that first without success due to the flush bolt head. Thought the easy out might be the way to go. Any other thought/suggestions?

Bolt Case - Post.jpg

Bolt Case 2 - Post.jpg

Bolts - Post.jpg

1440 Apart - Post.jpg

[Jeff in Pa]

Since that hole is already messed up, I suggest using a threaded insert
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-th...serts/=11bbq26

Take notice the drill size for the threaded hole needed is larger than a normal tap drill size.

Jeff

[CubyFan]

I may try a Heli-coil kit, then I can use the original size bolts.

Thanks Jeff!

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by CubyFan

I may try a Heli-coil kit, then I can use the original size bolts.

Thanks Jeff!

You can still use an original size bolt with the insert I posted the link to. If you get the thin wall , it's a 1/2-13NC thread you put in the buggered up casting and you still have your 3/8-16 NC standard size factory bolt.

With how that casting looks, you need all the strength you can get. I've installed thousands of heli coil inserts and I would use a Keensert stylr insert for that repair.

Your tractor, fix it how you want.

[CubyFan]

Ordered the insert from McM, looks much stronger. Thanks again

[Jeff in Pa]

Originally Posted by CubyFan

Ordered the insert from McM, looks much stronger. Thanks again

You're welcome, glad I could help.

[john hall]

Originally Posted by Jeff in Pa

Since that hole is already messed up, I suggest using a threaded insert
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-th...serts/=11bbq26

Take notice the drill size for the threaded hole needed is larger than a normal tap drill size.

Jeff

I'm with Jeff! Those inserts are pretty darn strong. I don't know what style you bought but some of them require using an oversized drill for the thread size on the outside of the insert--research what you ordered.

Easy outs are kind of like that line from Kenny Roger's The Gambler, "know when to hold them, know when to fold them".

[Sam Mac]

Ric

That should work just fine. When I have one broken off flush I weld a large washer to it and then I weld a nut to the washer. Wish I had a pic of one.

While you have it apart I suggest that you drill some oil return holes in the case.

[V30crewcab]

Just did the same things a couple weeks ago. Got it tigged up and retapped it. Wasn't happy that happened!

[gdheck]

+1 on Sam's approach. That has been working for me for years with an almost 100% success rate. The washer is much easier to weld to the broken bolt than reaching down inside a nut and then you just weld around the bottom outside of the nut. I like to use a fender washer, since it protects the surrounding material and allows the use of a larger nut.