Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

P&K Cub Cadet Machtech Direct

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Guest, We have turned off the forum to guest. This is due to bots attacking the site. It is still free to register.

-->
Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > IH Cub Cadet Tractors (GT)
Reload this Page Replacing flex discs on 982
Register FAQ Calendar

Notices

Reply
Page 1 of 2 1 2
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 04-26-2010, 01:39 PM
karamia karamia is offline
New Member
  
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Alberta
Posts: 3
Default Replacing flex discs on 982
Hello all. I'm a new member and this is my first post. I'm having a problem replacing the flex discs on the drive line. Mainly I can't figure out how to remove the drive shaft without shifting or (most likely from what I can see) removing the engine. The shaft extends into both the transmission and the engine couplers. There dose not seem to be enough play to move the shaft either way to effect removal. One good point about this is that if the discs were to experience catastrophic failure the shaft can't whip around destroying other components. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, I am looking for a chassis service manual for the 982.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 04-26-2010, 02:12 PM
Methos Methos is offline
Banned
  
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NC
Posts: 10,941
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by karamia View Post
Hello all. I'm a new member and this is my first post. I'm having a problem replacing the flex discs on the drive line. Mainly I can't figure out how to remove the drive shaft without shifting or (most likely from what I can see) removing the engine. The shaft extends into both the transmission and the engine couplers. There dose not seem to be enough play to move the shaft either way to effect removal. One good point about this is that if the discs were to experience catastrophic failure the shaft can't whip around destroying other components. Any help would be appreciated.

Also, I am looking for a chassis service manual for the 982.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 04-26-2010, 02:50 PM
ajgross ajgross is offline
Inactive Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Milan IN
Posts: 840
Default
The easiest way is to unbolt the engine and slide it forward. Just remove the grille, remove the 6 bolts holding the engine down and them slide it forward. It should take anymore than 10 minutes.

AJ
__________________
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock
1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist
1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch
1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 04-26-2010, 02:55 PM
Mountain Heritage's Avatar
Mountain Heritage Mountain Heritage is offline
Grand Member
  
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,589
Default
Nice to see a fellow Canadian!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 04-26-2010, 07:09 PM
murphycc
Guest
  
Posts: n/a
Default
I have swapped out drive shafts a dozen times without moving the motor. Pins are easily driven out of the shaft and couplers moved in on the shaft so the shaft can be removed.

Before anyone calls me an idiot for suggesting this method I will refer you for the MANUAL as the manual describes this method. (Yes I have been called an idiot for this suggestion)

You will need a good pin punch, not a standard flat punch.

Scott
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 04-26-2010, 09:50 PM
Matt G.'s Avatar
Matt G. Matt G. is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Wichita, KS
Posts: 5,661
Default
The manual assumes you have a tractor that never spent a day of its life out in the elements. I don't like to hammer on things on the driveshaft unnecessarily since it isn't good for the bearings in the pump. I've done it both ways and found it easier to unbolt the engine and slide it forward than mess with the spirol pins unless the spirol pins are shot.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 04-26-2010, 10:23 PM
aagitch's Avatar
aagitch aagitch is offline
Grand Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Paris, KY
Posts: 1,044
Default
If it was me changing the discs, since you're going to have things apart anyway, i'd replaced all the spirol pins with new ones. I'd also take a look at the bushings on each end. If you need to change the discs because they're shot, most likely the bushings need replaced.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 04-26-2010, 10:53 PM
murphycc
Guest
  
Posts: n/a
Default
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt G. View Post
The manual assumes you have a tractor that never spent a day of its life out in the elements. I don't like to hammer on things on the driveshaft unnecessarily since it isn't good for the bearings in the pump. I've done it both ways and found it easier to unbolt the engine and slide it forward than mess with the spirol pins unless the spirol pins are shot.
Our approach may be different.

Once I take a drive shaft out for the first time it goes back in as new. If the shaft is good (no wear) then it gets wire wheeled and painted, pins get wire wheeled and a good coat of anti-sieze prior to instalation, bushings get replaced, rags replaced, bolts replaced. I've yet to have one that I did not take back out for some reason or another and once replaced it's a breeze to remove with everything clean and rust free and anti-sieze on the pins.

Scott
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 04-27-2010, 01:46 AM
young enthusiest's Avatar
young enthusiest young enthusiest is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: AB
Posts: 632
Default
Hey guys, this new member with the 982 lives in the same town I go to school in. I've seen his 982... Really nice tractor, but it needs some TLC, and he is doing VERY well at repairing it. I agree on sliding the engine forward. I had to do tat to me 782. It is not hard
__________________
Tyler Chiliak. Southeast Alberta Canada.
My dad and I own, 1650, , 1450, 1250, 1250, 1200, 982, 782, 149, 149, 149, 128, 128, 123, 100, 100. Also a 1310, 1500, and 2 1600 IHC trucks.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 04-27-2010, 04:04 AM
camarokidz28's Avatar
camarokidz28 camarokidz28 is offline
Senior Member
  
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 532
Default
__________________
Denny
Original Member # 389
Saw It
Wanted It
Had A Fit
Got It

MY Cubs Original x 2 , 70 x 7 , 71 x 2 , 72 x 4 , 73 , 76 , 100 x 3 , 104 , 106 , 109 , 128 , 129, 147 x 2 , 804 , 2 Wheel Horses and Lorenzo's 2 - 804's
Reply With Quote
Reply
Page 1 of 2 1 2

Tags
982, drive shaft, flex discs

« Previous Thread | Next Thread »

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:40 AM.

www.onlycubcadets.net - Archive - Top

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.