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#1
08-12-2015, 07:20 PM
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Another question about my 782
First just a reminder, the lift works fine, but the tractor wouldn't move either direction. When I would try to go either direction, it would make a noise like when you turn power steering too far.
Now I have cleaned and removed the relief valves and they both are free and smooth. Next I pulled the back plate off and drained all the fluid and removed the filter. There was about a half inch of black sludge in the bottom. My question is, shouldn't it roll free now that the fluid is out? I can't push it by hand at all. I jacked the back wheels off the ground and they turn easy, (one forward the other reverse) but when I drop it down, I can't move it. I hate to fill it with Hytran and a new filter if there's some problem with the transmission. 
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#2
08-12-2015, 08:01 PM
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If one wheel moves fwd and the other back ward your axles/spider gears are ok.
It sounds like you have a problem with either the hydro or the ring/pinion or it's bearings. If it were mine, I would separate the hydro from the rear end and see which one is hung up. 
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#3
08-12-2015, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Does the Sundstrand Hydro unit "sound" like it is under strain or a different pitch when you move the control lever either forward or reverse...?? Quote:
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[B]Roland Bedell[/B] CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072 [SIZE="4"][B][COLOR="Red"]Buy:[/COLOR][COLOR="Blue"] Made in the USA[/COLOR][/B] [/SIZE]:American Flag 1:
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#7
08-12-2015, 09:15 PM
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I just bought it Sunday without knowing if it would run or do anything else. I got the engine running and it runs great. When I started to move it, it wouldn't go either way. It sounded like the pump would strain when I pushed the lever either direction. The lift works perfect.
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#8
08-12-2015, 09:35 PM
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ok no help there, though maybe it had a little history.
back to pulling it apart, it really is not that hard. Sounds like the motor part of the hydro is working, just something is stopping things from turning. pull the fender pan off, linkages, loosen the 2 hyd lines and drive out the coiled pin on the rear rag joint where it is in the hydro.( don't forget to support it with a hydraulic jack so the jack takes the strain of hitting the pin with a punch) take out the 2 bolts in the frame for the front dif supports and the 4 bolts that hold the diff to the frame over the axle housings. (I might of forgot a few things) Then support the frame near the center and roll the rear end & hydro out to the rear ( in your case you will have to slide it as wheels will not turn) then unbolt the hydro from the rear end and see which is locked up. I've done it a few times so it is easy but it really is if you are @ all handy. I can do it in 15 minutes if not encountering rusted bolts on foot rests.
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#9
08-12-2015, 09:44 PM
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Just thought of something, after you have the fender pan off before you remove the rearend/hydro assy.
there is a square-ish plate on top of the dif housing, (4X6" maybe) remove the 4 bolts/plate and you can see into the housing looking @ the hydro output gear and the reduction gear that drives the differential pinion, you might see something there that ain't right, like broken teeth, something wedged between them etc.
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#10
08-12-2015, 09:46 PM
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Ok thanks. I have no problem with doing it. I've done a lot of work on my two 318 green tractors and a 982 I fixed up and sold. I just haven't had to work on a hydro before. It doesn't scare me though. I've been married 46 years, so I'm not afraid of anything.
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