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  #1  
Old 06-29-2015, 12:52 AM
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jaynjeep jaynjeep is offline
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Default 1782 alternator belt

I'm new to the Cyclops/Kubota series.. I need to replace the alternator/fan belt on my new to me 1782. It looks to be original... kinda dry and old looking... I don't trust it.
My question... Can the driveshaft be removed without moving the engine or transaxle? I'm thinking remove the four allen head bolts in the rear CV and maybe the whole shaft will come out thru the tunnel cover area?? Will the spline pull out of the engine CV without upsetting anything?

Thanks in advance for the help
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Old 06-29-2015, 01:50 AM
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Yes, the driveshaft will come out that way, but I would take the front CV joint off too. I say this because in my opinion they both should be cleaned up, repacked with grease, have the rubber boots replaced if needed and have the o-ring in the CV joint replaced. I put a small zip tie around the rubber boot where it slips over the drive shaft and pull it fairly snug so the grease can't squeeze out.
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Old 06-29-2015, 11:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdheck View Post
Yes, the driveshaft will come out that way, but I would take the front CV joint off too. I say this because in my opinion they both should be cleaned up, repacked with grease, have the rubber boots replaced if needed and have the o-ring in the CV joint replaced. I put a small zip tie around the rubber boot where it slips over the drive shaft and pull it fairly snug so the grease can't squeeze out.
Great info! Thank you for the tip... do you commonly replace any parts in the CV other than boots and O rings? I see some balls in the breakdown, do they commonly wear?
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Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer
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Old 06-30-2015, 09:04 PM
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I have a 2182 I bought new and a 1782 and have only replaced the boots once on the 2182. As long as someone kept a little grease in them you shouldn't have to replace the balls.
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Old 07-01-2015, 11:23 AM
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I've only had to replace the ball bearings on one CV joint I've run across. It didn't look like the PO ever greased the CV joint,, and the joint looked like it had filled with water at some point. The pitting and erosion on the steel balls were extensive. I wish I had taken some pix of them for viewing.
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Old 07-01-2015, 03:34 PM
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The CV joints on my 1863 and 1864 have both been apart for cleaning/greasing a couple of times. I reused the o-rings as they weren't torn or crushed. I replaced the boots once and used the tie wrap at the shaft. With a good cleaning of the CV components, light scuffing could be found. I don't think the previous owner greased the joints. I just reused all the parts. Years later when I had the engine removed again, I redid the CV cleaning/grease. No change in light scuffing. Just repack with grease and reassemble. Once properly maintained, the CV joints should last a long time.
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Old 07-01-2015, 10:06 PM
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Thanks for all the info guys!

I have a bad feeling that mine hasn't seen grease in a long time.. It's still running true and not vibrating but if you grab it by hand and try to turn it there is some rotational slack.. I'm gonna pull it out this weekend and see what she looks like inside the joints.. I really don't want it to come apart on me while its running.. that would probably be bad!
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Proud owner of the following:
Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer
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Old 07-20-2015, 07:33 PM
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Default 1782 alternator belt and driveshaft

Finally got some time to work on the 1782 for a minute. Disassembled the driveshaft, cleaned and repacked the CV joints.. I got an extra shaft from Sam a few weeks ago. Took both apart and used the best parts from both.

I used my old shaft, some new boots from Cub Cadet, two NOS splined couplers from epay, the outer couplers from Sam's shaft, and eight new ball bearings from McMaster Carr.. All put together made one like new driveshaft..

Chucked it up in my old South Bend and checked the run out.. only .005".. probably as good as it was when new..

Also picked up a new alternator belt.. A 7320 Gates belt fits like a glove.. Local Oriellys had it in stock. Now I just gotta get it all back in the tractor!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1782 driveshaft 2.jpg (11.0 KB, 107 views)
File Type: jpg 1782 driveshaft.jpg (6.6 KB, 107 views)
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Jay

40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets!

Proud owner of the following:
Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:22 PM
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Lookin good Buddy. Should be SMOOTH................
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Old 07-20-2015, 10:36 PM
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Lookin good Buddy. Should be SMOOTH................
Sam,

I'm sure it will be smooth for a smoker... BUT that Kubota gasser has already spoiled me!! It's like glass!!
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40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets!

Proud owner of the following:
Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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