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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

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  #1  
Old 06-27-2015, 11:00 PM
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jecole360 jecole360 is offline
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Default Mounting a 1A tiller to an 1811

I bought a 1A tiller to mount on my 1811 but the bolt holes in the rear end of my 1811 don't match up with the mounting holes in the gearbox plate for the 1A. I thought about making a template from my 1811's diff cover and drilling new holes in the gearbox plate but I don't think that will work so I think I'm going to make an adapter to bolt to the gearbox and the 1811 rear end.

My main question is if I do that how far out should I space it? I was thinking at least 1" so I can get the bolts in there but I'm unsure about belt length if I do that. Will 1" really make a difference on the length of belt I get or will I have to buy a longer belt? FYI I currently don't have the long belt for it and am unsure on how long the belt needs to be anyway. If anyone has any input or advice I'd appreciate it. Thanks
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Old 06-27-2015, 11:19 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I did it.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ht=1811+tiller


You will need a longer belt. I used a Gates belt. I don't remember the length, but I will say if I was to get a new one I'd go a tad shorter. From the time I built it it has stretched and I'm running out of adjustment. If you want more pics I can get them.
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:36 AM
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Thanks that looks great if its not too much trouble could you get me pics of just the bracket and maybe some measurements?
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Old 06-28-2015, 04:22 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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If you want pics of just the bracket, the tiller is on right now. Sorry I'm not taking it all off just for a pic. However, I will most likely be taking it off soon, and will be more than happy to get pics then. It's nothing special. I used plate steel for the rear plate (cut out of a larger piece), angle iron with one side cut off to run up to the frame. Then, straight bars to the lower axle bolts. The rear plate is basically flush with the rear of the frame. There is just enough room to get your fingers in behind the plate. Like I said I can get some more pics at a later date.
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Old 06-28-2015, 10:42 PM
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Ok that's fine. I'm just trying to get an idea of how it looks and how it's suppose to work. I'm new to this and don't know a thing about how they are suppose to mount on there. I've got a good welder and I'm good at fabricating so I'm sure I can get it done, just need to know what to build to mount the gearbox.
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Old 06-28-2015, 11:41 PM
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Not to be a smart a$$, but if your a good welder and good fabricator, it should be pretty easy. The gearbox is supposed to mount to the rear of the tractor trans, so build a plate that accomplishes that and you are golden.
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Old 06-29-2015, 12:37 AM
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Basically its a flat plate that bolts to the frame of the tractor and the axle bolts. This plate puts wei g ht and stress in places more suitable to handle it rather than the ptraditional practice of bolting to the rear of the differential cover.

After that, its two "hooks" on the bottom of the plate and a bracket towards the top center that accepts a pin.

Thd tiller gear box will require a "grid" of sorts that bolts on the back of the gear box. This grid has a rod laying horizontal across the bottom of the gear box. The rod lays in the hooks on the plate attsched to the tractor. Perpendicular to and above the rod is flat steel that lays in the bracket in the top center of the plate where a pin keeps the gear box home.

Clear as mud?

Im sure you have it figured out, just trying to help.
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