Franken-127

[labrati]

Well, it ran great for a couple of days.. now my 127 doesn't start.. I've gone through the wiring diagrams and it appears to have some sort of modified ignition system, hoping someone here can point me in the right direction..

Ran great, until I hosed it off. Now I can't get any spark out of the coil.

The first image is of the current ignition setup. the little black box in the top of the photos contains a brown wire that goes to the points, a grey wire that connects to a yellow wire from what appears to be the harness, and a green wire that goes to the coil. The next shot is a close up of this box.

Next the Voltage Regulator?

A shot of inside the steering tower

The Starter / Generator. I don't find the colors to match the 127 wiring diagram.

A shot of the points and then a shot of the side showing the coil and points.

I've dried everything with a good soaking of WD-40, dried the points, replaced the spark-plug, and tried to make sure all wires have a good connection. The coil gets VERY hot.. so I'm wondering if its just a bad coil. But again I couldn't find any reference to this setup.

Also, where can I find the Neutral Safety switch?

Thanks in advance.

edit... looks like I can only upload 5...

[Matt G.]

The first thing to do would be to get rid of that ignition box and move the V/R and coil off the muffler shield...that's why they're hot....The voltage regulator is not going to last long up there, if it isn't already shot.

It amazes me the things these previous owners do without thinking.

[Cub Cadet 123]

I had that problem once before. The hosing down, in my opinion, isn't a very good idea. Anymore, I use an air hose to spray excess grass/dust off, and then a spray bottle with soapy water. My problem was on the ground wire to the frame. I loosened each of my connections as I traced out my wiring, dried them off and took a piece of sandpaper gently over them, then re-connected. It took a little while, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to do that anyway.......and it worked!!! The safety switch is under the tower, just in front of the rock shaft. Be careful if you disconnect that wire as the leads to it are fragile and may break off. A good drying and some re-connection and you should be back up and running soon!!! Good luck!!

Cub Cadet 123

[Cub Cadet 123]

By drying, I mean a towel drying!!

Cub Cadet 123

[labrati]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

The first thing to do would be to get rid of that ignition box and move the V/R and coil off the muffler shield...that's why they're hot....The voltage regulator is not going to last long up there, if it isn't already shot.

It amazes me the things these previous owners do without thinking.

Matt, thanks... I left the key "on" and the coil is too hot to touch... is this normal? I agree about the location of everything... I especially like the point wire that dangles on the "manifold"... at any rate.. so just go back to a coil and condenser?

[labrati]

Originally Posted by Cub Cadet 123

I had that problem once before. The hosing down, in my opinion, isn't a very good idea. Anymore, I use an air hose to spray excess grass/dust off, and then a spray bottle with soapy water. My problem was on the ground wire to the frame. I loosened each of my connections as I traced out my wiring, dried them off and took a piece of sandpaper gently over them, then re-connected. It took a little while, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to do that anyway.......and it worked!!! The safety switch is under the tower, just in front of the rock shaft. Be careful if you disconnect that wire as the leads to it are fragile and may break off. A good drying and some re-connection and you should be back up and running soon!!! Good luck!!

Cub Cadet 123

I've hit just about every connection with a test set and I've got good ground where it should be grounded, good 11.58V DC with the key "on" where it should be... I tested primarily the voltage regulator, coil and points, as everything else appears to be working. Would the safety switch allow the S/G to turn over but retard spark? And forgive me for a simplistic question, but the last time I worked on ignition was a 77 Fj40... but if the points are wet could that keep the coil from firing?

[Matt G.]

Yeah, just go back to the condenser. The coil is going to get hot when you leave the points on when you aren't running it, as you're just continually shorting it and dissipating energy in it. Don't leave the ignition on when the engine isn't running.

I imagine someone must have a picture that shows the proper locations for the coil and V/R for you. I don't have a good one.

[labrati]

Originally Posted by Matt G.

Yeah, just go back to the condenser. The coil is going to get hot when you leave the points on when you aren't running it, as you're just continually shorting it and dissipating energy in it. Don't leave the ignition on when the engine isn't running.

I imagine someone must have a picture that shows the proper locations for the coil and V/R for you. I don't have a good one.

Thanks... simple is always better.. so.. should I have any adjustments to the points? I'm just wondering if they had to be set due to what I'm guessing is some sort of "circuitry" in that little black box.. I'm hoping this is a cut and splice and move and replace and go on project.. I think I've seen the coil mounted on the side over below and to the right of the carb.. I'm sure I can find some photos... thanks again...

[R Bedell]

My suggestion is to, tear out the "foreign devices" and mount the IH parts in the correct location. Wire it according to the Wiring Diagram.

[truckntran]

The combination of leaving the ignition ON and hosing the tractor down may have fried or at least gotten the points dirty... That would be the first thing I would check.... and for sure remount the coil and VR properly.

99 percent of no runs after washing have something to do with water fouling the ignition system, whether it be the coil tower or the point set.