Quietline 1450 Engine Removal

Don1450 · #1 06-06-2015, 11:19 AM

My engine is vibrating like crazy. I think its time to replace motor mounts. My service manual says I need to remove engine, grill, and hood. Is this a complicated job? The manual makes it seem simple, but I'm curious about other's thoughts on what could go wrong.

Can someone with experience comment on level of difficulty and time required to get it out, replace mounts, reinstall, and get it running again? Am I looking at a few hours? Days? Or bring it to a service station?

Alvy · #2 06-06-2015, 03:58 PM

With basic hand tools it's a few hours of work if the mounts need to be replaced. The front grill and hood can come off as an assembly. Disconnecting some wiring and cables as well as the mounting, belt, etc and it's out. I would suggest doing the cradle mod when you get it out as well as pressure washing the engine compartment. You can search the forum for how that's done also.

bkw3614 · #3 06-06-2015, 05:51 PM

You can remove the whole grill and hood assembly in one unit.

Remove the side panels. Unhook your electrical wiring for the headlights, including the ground. Look down inside the tractor, just behind the grill case, on the left front and right front of the tractor. You will see two bolts on each side, bolted to the frame. Remove these two bolts on each side. You can then lift off the grill and hood in one unit.

I urge you to be careful when setting aside this assembly, as it will be easy to break the hood hinge or upper grill assembly where the hinge is bolted. Setting it on a side may be best.

Follow the steps in the service manual for engine removal. It is quite easy. It took me about a half an hour to get the engine out of my 1250 Nightmare.

When replacing the ISO mounts, be sure to do the engine cradle modification. this will make your mounts last longer and smooth out some of the vibration, along with being easier on your oil pan. I urge you to check and repair your steering when you have the engine out. It is much easier to do so with the engine out of the way.

Good luck with your project.

Brian Wittman

Don1450 · #4 06-06-2015, 06:37 PM

Thanks guys for the quick advise. I'm definitely going to do the mod you mentioned; I've got the instructions online. I'll also do the steering column rebuild as you suggest. Do I need to be concerned with the reinforced rubber disc that connects the engine to the driveshaft? Is that a replacement item as well?

JLM78 · #5 06-06-2015, 07:21 PM

Make sure the engine is tight to the sub frame

twoton · #6 06-06-2015, 07:47 PM

Hey Don1450, take some pictures along the way and let us know how it turns out. Yes, replace the rag joint (fiber disc).

johncub7172 · #7 06-06-2015, 11:01 PM

Hey Don! The enthusiasts here at Only Cub Cadets will help you out. I'm glad you are taking the time to familiarize yourself with the manual and part names.

While the Kohler is out, take notice whether or not the front axel is moving front-to-back when turning left or right. If so, now the absolute time to shim the pivot pin and install a new pivot pin keeper { coil } pin!

Don1450 · #8 06-13-2015, 08:54 PM

Got my parts over the last week or so. Took the engine out today.

Big problems I think. The bottom rubber mounts were almost totally gone. Sub frame has been riding on the frame for a long time. I can see some worn spots on top of the cross member that contains the front axle. The motor had only the two rear bolts holding it to the sub frame pieces. the holes in the sub frame for those bolts are elongated pretty badly. There's no way I can afford new ones at $50 each. I'll see if I can get the welder to close them up for me when he does the cross brace modification. The two front threaded holes in the oil pan seem worn down to a curve and the threads need re-tapping. I don't know what there supposed to look like. Hope that tapping will do the trick. Definitely can't afford a new oil pan for $150.

But I did get the carb off and rebuilt beautifully. And I will be replacing all the rubber mounts once I fix the rails and add the cross member. Did the steering column rebuild, replaced all the rod ends, and put in a new front axle pivot pin. Will also be putting in a new drive shaft rubber flex disc.

Here are the links to my images. I don't know how to get them to show:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6khyllrvxp...19.03.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h7uaxjflis...19.34.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qjp9h9mpyz...19.46.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/h21m44z2gy...20.18.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5yntf48hv9...38.05.jpg?dl=0

bkw3614 · #9 06-13-2015, 09:37 PM

I think you are off to a good start. I looked at your photos and there has been wear going on for a very long time.

I urge you to consider a Helicoil or similar repair to your oil pan. That keeps your bolts standard and saves a headache, should this happen again. Many have recommended using blue Loctite on the pan bolts that attach the engine to the engine cradle. I didn't do that on my 1250 Nightmare, but now I wish I had. The pan bolts have come loose on me twice, an when I tighten them, I will use the Loctite treatment.

Please check your oil pan to be sure that the four feet are level. This will assure that the engine sits in the cradle in a level position. This assures that the belt for the PTO wears evenly, and the drive shaft is as straight as possible.

Many replace their aluminum oil pan with one made of cast iron. The sponsors, who sell parts, as listed above, can help you find one.

Your project seems to be coming along just fine. Many of us Quietline owners have done this, and ended up with great tractors!

zippy1 · #10 06-13-2015, 11:04 PM

Yup, you got some wear at critical areas....
Weld the holes shut on the rails and re-drill would be the cheapest I guess.
"If" it were mine, seeing you got the engine out I'd replace the pan with a cast one, but that's me......not you. Your tractor, your choice.....
You're doing a good job so far.