Iso mounts--solid or rubber.

[Cub Cadet 123]

Ok, not wanting to spark a debate on one versus the other as I already looked this topic up on the forum and read many posts on it.

Looks like I need to replace the iso mounts on my 1200 so an ounce of proper maintenance is worth a pound or prevention. I am hoping to hear pros and cons from members who have tractors--some with solid mounts and some with rubber mounts, so that I can hear a comparison. From what I have already read, the hardest part about the rubber iso mounts is proper installation, but if you know what you are doing then it is not a problem at all (this will be my first time for changing these out)....but other than increased vibration through energy transfer, is there other downfalls to solid mounts?

I can pick up the rubber iso mounts for around $28/for all 8. Where do I purchase and how much are the solid iso mounts?

As always, thanks in advance for all of your comments and suggestions.

Cub Cadet 123

[bkw3614]

I can only speak to the replacement of the rubber ISO mounts. About four years ago, I replaced the rubber mounts in my Cub Cadet 1250.

I think it is important to be quite methodical when replacing the ISO mounts. I would recommend that you pull the engine and examine if your oil pan has had any wear to make the engine sit crooked on the cradle. To do this take a straight edge and see if the bolt holes are directly across from each other. It is also recommended to set the engine, or the pan on a dead-level surface and see if it rocks at all. You need to get rid of this rocking.

Second, while the engine is out of the tractor, take the engine cradle and make this modification, if it hasn't been done already. Here is how this is done:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4630

After the engine cradle modification is done, I set the cradle back into the tractor and replaced the motor mounts with genuine Cub Cadet ISO mount kits. It takes four kits. I replaced the original rubber mount bolts with those of the correct diameter (3/8" x 1 3/4", I think?) from Caterpillar. I used CAT bolts because of their raised head. I also used new nylock nuts. I put the mounts together as shown: http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7 and installed the nuts with about 1 1/2-2 threads showing above the nuts.

I reinstalled the engine, bolted it to the engine cradle using new Caterpillar bolts and lock washers, and ran it. The vibration was terrible. I then began to tighten the motor mounts until I found that the vibration subsided. It took about two weeks of playing with the adjustment of the mounts to fit the engine vibration.

This method took a lot of messing around, patience, and trial and error. The result is now I have a nice, relatively vibration-free 1250 that is a joy to operate.

There are a lot of horror stories out there concerning non-factory mounts that fit in the mounting hole. There are an equal amount of stories that talk about the horrible factory mounts and the recommendation to use after-market mounts of some kind. I have no experience with either. I also have no experience with solid mounts, except for the fact that steel transmits vibration, where rubber absorbs it.

In my opinion, all that I did to make the 1250 a nice, easy riding tractor was worth it. When I started, it would vibrate the fillings from my teeth. I would do it again in a heartbeat, if I were to acquire another Quietline tractor.

All the best to you on your project.

Brian Wittman

[mortten]

When I did mine I reused the OEM uppers. I moved them to the bottom and used stabilizer bushings on the top. Has worked well for 3 years. If you use solid mounts then they are no longer ISO

[finsruskw]

I went the cheap route and installed, along w/ the cradle mod, a set of the fancy NAPA blue (neoprene?? sp.) or whatever in my BIL's 1450 to save him a buck. These are the ones listed here on the site as cross referenced from Cub #'s to NAPA

They are horrible!!! I don't like them and I know He won't either. I am contemplating trying a set of the black rubber ones as seen on E-bay for comparison but really leaning towards the OEM mounts from Cub Cadet and eating the cost myself as I am the one that kinda talked him into getting the 1450 in the first place so I feel responsible here.

If he is not happy with this, I will offer him what he paid for it and do it right and be done with it.

My 1250, 1000 and 1200 are the smoothest running rigs in my stable.
The way the 14's and 16's shake and vibrate I fail to see how solid mounts would do anything but make the whole rig do the same. When the 1650 is due, I will add the Kirk balance pate to the crank, although at certain RPM ranges it isn't too bad.

[105_Tom]

Cub123, we're in this together. I just shook down the 1650 I picked up, and decided I want to do a full-out upgrade with the cradle mod and replacement of the ISO mounts. I'm going to go with the $28 set on ePay for the softer rubber and maintain the ISO-quality damping that comes from rubber mounts since I have the 16hp K341. Remember, none of these AQS-series Kohlers have internal balance gears, so my vote is to stay with some sort of rubber mount to absorb the rotational inertia, especially with the 14 or 16hp engines. We did a cradle mod, cast iron oil pan replacement, and aftermarket soft rubber ISOs on my buddy's 1450 4 years ago, and he's still a happy customer with a smooth running engine.

We had bought the oil pan and modded cradle from Patton Acres when we did the overhaul, but it appears that the cradles are NLA from there or anywhere else. Definitely check your oil pan motor mount bolt holes for any issues, and get a new pan if you have any doubts. I've read a lot of people have been satisfied with Brian Miller's solid mounts, but I've gotta stay rubber with the big K341.

[sawdustdad]

Another vote for rubber mounts. The eBay versions seem to work Ok.

[johncub7172]

Cub 123, The new factory Cub Cadet ISO mounts for the IH Cub Cadet Quiet Line series are in fact very different from the original mounts that were on these true IH Cub Cadet garden tractors. The new mounts are very easy to install, as the lower mounts now actually rest through the cradle, and rise a little above the cradle. The upper mount will cap the lower, and fit together nicely.

I have made a few adjustments to mine, those preformed was only snugging the new mounts down a tad. I'm probably about 3 threads above the lock nut. I have also installed new flex disc at both front and rear locations. My Quiet Line runs very smooth and quiet. Though, the sheet steel is not perfect and straight, but close,...mine will still rattle those a little.

In my opinion, the QL is the nicest looking garden tractor IH Cub Cadet ever made!

105 Tom, 1 out of the three Ql's I own had the grenade gears in the engine. This was in my other Quiet Line 1450 with Kohler K321aqs engine.

Here is my garden tractor.

[Cub Cadet 123]

Thanks fellas for all of the helpful advice. Right now, my 1200 shakes in mid throttle, but runs quiet and smooth in high throttle and is starting to shake in low throttle. I probably should name that cub Kate, after the old song that says, "I Wish I Could Shimmy (and Shake) Like My Sister Kate"..

Since going to solid mounts will just continue something that I am not pleased with already, I think that would be futile. I think I will go with the EPay ones. I never thought to check the oil pan---Thanks for that suggestion Brian. I do not think I will make the engine cradle mod though, at this time, since I need this cub for mowing and I am not a welder.

johncub7172, my cub dealer went out of business so now it is a bit more inconvenient for me to get parts. You have a good looking QL there!!

Any more advice is always welcome and definitely appreciated!!!

With much appreciation,

Cub Cadet 123

[Alvy]

Maxwell are you planning on doing the cradle mod or having it done if you don't have a welder? I highly recommend it, it helped a lot even on my little 800. I actually went with some used original iso mounts from one of out sponsors. The upper ones are usually ok vs the bottoms that get roached out but I think rubber is the way to go. Also +1 for taking out the motor because you need to inspect the 3 pin driver for cracks in the thin metal area where the mounting holes are. I actually welded mine up because the price was redonk for one of those. Good luck and let us know

[OldSkull]

I'm sure you can find a backyard welder who can do it for a beer or let's say $10 max.

I do it for free. I'm a welding and fab-junky! Well...To bad Ohio is a long ride from my "drug store"