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#1
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My Quiet Line 1000 has a problem with the clutch. When I push the clutch in, it shifts into gear fine, but the drive shaft locks up....very suddenly. I can still drive the tractor, but it is not right and I don't want to make a bad situation worse.
Is it the throw out bearing? The clutch plates look fine and it disengages fine. Ideas on a fix? Help? |
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#2
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More than likely the front and or rear drive shaft bushings are worn out allowing the drive shaft to wobble. Only way to know for sure is to pull the shaft and check the bushings.
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DWayne 1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck 10" moldboard plow 2016 XT1 42" deck 18HP |
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#3
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thanks for reply
I thought about disconnecting at the transmission and then at the engine e an dpulling the whole thing out. then maybe take the whole assembly to my local dealer for parts/repair. its spring loaded and thts intimidating to me. |
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#4
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I have a 1000, also. I'm trying to imagine what you mean by "the drive shaft locks up"
Can you give us some more information? Does the tractor not move or does it move when you put it in gear? If the shaft is locked up, it sounds like the tractor would not move. But you say you don't want to use it which sounds like it does move. Does the engine continue to run but the drive shaft doesn't turn? I suspect there is a rag joint or spirol pin issue... have you looked at the drive shaft to determine what is going on?
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#5
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sounds like the throw out bearing is froze and it locks up the drive shaft when the clutch is disengaged.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
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#6
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I think it IS the throwout bearing. If I can remove the whole clutch/driveshaft assembly, I will replace the whole thing with a drop in from
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#7
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If I can get it out as an assembly, I will replace the entire assembly with a drop in from Zach Kerber. I don't have the tools to compress the spring myself. I talked to my dealer, he said $50 for the bearing and $75 labor. Might as well replace the soft plate too while its apart.
SO I will try to remove whole assembly and contact Zach Kerber. |
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#8
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Luke....with the clutch released, you should be able to spin the TOB by hand if the clutch is adjusted correctly, (has the correct amount of free play) I'd check that first.
The TOB only comes into play when the clutch is depressed. If it spins, it is ok. The drive shaft may be binding on either end due to bad roller bushings, couplers, worn and collapsed ISO mounts or warped and stretched rag joints, or...a combo of all of the above. The service manual covers disassembly of the clutch with the use of a vise. I do it all the time, no fancy special tools req'd except maybe a soft drift or hardwood block and a punch to remove the spirol pin. Fix it right the first time with the correct needed parts and you will never look back. Good Luck Waiting for the storm to break now, so fire away.... |
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#9
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Thank you finsrusku
I am going up to farm property now and bring home tractor. You mention some very important observations. I noticed my engine is vibrating more lately. When clutch is released, all is normal. With clutch pedal depressed, shifts into and out of gear very well. BUT the driveshaft is locked when pedal is fully depressed. I will have more to report in about 5 hours. I still may mow with it just a little. |
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#10
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The drive shaft is supposed to stop turning when you depress the clutch. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to shift....
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