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Reload this Page How to replace a brake pedal spring on 82 series
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Old 03-25-2015, 08:42 PM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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Default How to replace a brake pedal spring on 82 series
Ok, I have lost my patience and cannot for the life of me replace my brake pedal spring on my 782. Tonight, I split my tractor, thinking that I could slide the rearend forward, load the spring and then slide the rearend back and then bolt it together. That idea soon fizzled when I saw the linkage pin had to be installed first so the spring had something to attach to. I was fired up to work on my 782, but now the wind is out of my sails and I am dead in the water......HELP!!!

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Old 03-25-2015, 08:55 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Which spring? The return spring on the brake pedal? The long one under the tunnel cover?

Or do you have an external brake style and you are talking about the ones that run from the brake caliper to the brake rockshaft?
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:00 PM
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Cub Cadet 123 Cub Cadet 123 is offline
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uh huh.....that one.

The long one (return spring) that goes from the brake pedal rockshaft back to the driver's left frame brace on the rearend.

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Old 03-25-2015, 09:05 PM
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Very very carefully.. and I've found locking needle nose pliers help somewhat as well
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:07 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I always hook the spring onto the bolt first. (Just to be clear, it attaches to the long 3/8" bolt that comes through the frame, on the LH brace for the hydro.) Then, I use a pair of vice grips and lock them onto the front of the spring (the straight part just below the hook) and use it to pull the spring into place. You can use two hands on the vice grips.

WARNING: If the vice grips slip off...... it still hurts really bad when your hand smacks the tower.
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:14 PM
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Nothing good ever comes easy. I was hoping there was a universal secret that I did not know that would make it easier to do. One of my biggest problems is just clearance.....seems to be a full house going on around that linkage area. Operator 6, it attaches to the bracket to the frame, not the bolt.....or at least that is the only place I have ever seen them on the 782. Ok, I will have another go at it tomorrow .......once my nerves settle.

Thanks for the assistance and quick response to my question. Much obliged...

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Old 03-25-2015, 09:40 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I can't verify whether all are supposed to be hooked to the bolt or not, but the parts book shows a 1 1/4" bolt for the LH mount on all models of 782's. Not that it matters, but I'm pretty sure that's where it's supposed to attach.
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Old 03-26-2015, 06:18 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Geez, I have done this several times and I don't recall it being an issue.
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Old 03-26-2015, 07:47 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Get a length of 1/4" or 3/16" rod or very stiff #9 wire and bend a small hook in one end and a handle of sorts on the other to hang on to. Make it long enough to have room to get a good grip on it. Vice grips on spring steel is a good way to shorten the life of the spring and/or break the end off.

Waa Laa!! Instant custom tool!!

Works for me
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Old 03-26-2015, 08:04 AM
Mike McKown Mike McKown is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Get a length of 1/4" or 3/16" rod or very stiff #9 wire and bend a small hook in one end and a handle of sorts on the other to hang on to. Make it long enough to have room to get a good grip on it. Vice grips on spring steel is a good way to shorten the life of the spring and/or break the end off.

Waa Laa!! Instant custom tool!!

Works for me
This is similar to what I made. I got a stiff 3/16" rod about 2' long. Flattened one end and drilled a hole through it. Bent a handle on the other end.

Hooked the spring through the end of the rod, attached the spring to the tractor at the front and then pulled to the rear on the spring and hooked really simple and easy.

This was on a Cyclops with the rear fenders and gas tank removed.
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