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#1
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I've been thinking bout why my cub won't run recently, and I wonder if I screwed up big time. I had the engine apart during winter and got a new rod and decided to replace the piston as well. I didn't think about this before, but I never honed out the cylinder before I put in the new piston and rod and rings in.
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if you want a real tractor, you need a CUB CADET!! ![]() ![]() |
#2
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Is there any chance you had the cam gear timing incorrect when you reassembled the engine?(did you take it apart that far? ) Are your valves adjusted to the correct clearances? are they sticking open? Were the valves lapped in or at least cleaned well with a wire brush?
And is the tank topped off with fresh gas and do you have a nice clean spark plug, not a fouled one from too much fuel? All of the above are just shots in the dark, but worth considering anyway. EDIT: Did you make certain the ring gaps were offset from each other ? Lining them up would also be a reason for poor compression... Also not honing can cause poor compression and will cause oil smoking..You might want to pull the engine and get the cylinder honed before the season kicks off.
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Quietlines and narrow frames, mostly projects but I mow with a 1200 and have a 122 set up for pulls. Wandering the country bringing towers to wind farms everywhere, and bringing yellow stuff home to Texas. Also into flatfender jeeps. |
#3
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When I had the head off when I first got it the valves didn't stick but I didn't check for clearance and I'm pretty sure but not positive that I cleaned the valves. I guess it's time to tear her back down again. I didn't go as far as disassembling the timing gears and such. I just took out the connecting rod and piston. Everything else was in good shape. I totally forgot about honing til my uncle talked to me about him honing something else I can't recall. Well, at this point might as well strip her down and start restoring her. I'm going to create a different thread in the restoration section for tips and stuff. My last attempt at restoring a tractor went over poorly.
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if you want a real tractor, you need a CUB CADET!! ![]() ![]() |
#4
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sounds like you and me are in the same boat. "Merkel" would know all this secret stuff. my k161 broke hims little arm and scraped up the piston. so later on i will get it re-built. thats the beauty of these old tractors....you can fix anything. so in the mean time, i had another motor on the shelf and in no time flat i was back in the saddle again. these are addicting....when i needs me a part, i sometimes and up with a whole nother parts tractor to boot! good luck with your project. there are a few ideas to choose from as you decide how long you want it to be down! but for starters i would be doing my home work on every thing about it and what this site and folks have shared with us.! thanks, John.
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#5
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if you want a real tractor, you need a CUB CADET!! ![]() ![]() |
#6
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It's not rocket science. So, don't get all bent out of shape trying to figure it out.
The quickest, easiest, and it just so happens....THE RIGHT way to figure it out is to pop it out.... Yeah, spend the whopping 1/2 hour to take it out, bolt it down on a wooden bench (I use lag screws), and take it apart, down to where you previously took it apart. Lay the parts out, as you take it apart. Then check it, and reassemble, one piece at a time, checking all your clearances. I always check, double check, then triple before buttoning up. While on the bench, use jumper cables and start it up. Do your timing, and even adjust the carb. shut it down, restart it. Get the bugs out n the bench.
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Fly Fishing is not a sport...It's a way of life. |
#7
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It's also imperative that you follow the service manual closely when disassembling and reassembling the engine to help ensure that you don't mess something up.
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#8
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if learning something were EAZY, we would not need teachers. pretty clear and cut-dry? i'am sorry to have given you a answer to my problem. we simply dont know what we dont know. i'am confident one ih cc owner to another, you will soon figure out this delima with the respective sugestions and advice from folks here at this cool site to lend a helping hand. i'd walk through heck on sunday to get to the core of the matter! i'am happy to help, at least then we know some things that dont fit.:BB&YS
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#9
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#10
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Thanks for you feedback everyone. eastonct124 I'm gonna try out your idea by tearing it down and put it back together the right way and then start it on a bench. I'm going to make sure to be more careful this time so I won't have to do this again. The thing is, I still need a manual....... shame on me. Will a 125 manual work? I have one for the 125 I could use.
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if you want a real tractor, you need a CUB CADET!! ![]() ![]() |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.
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