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Reload this Page Can't get my 127 to move
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:42 PM
RichardNoggin RichardNoggin is offline
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Default Can't get my 127 to move
Since I have no real idea of the maintenance of my 127 I am going to do a tune up on it this weekend. But, first I have to get it into the garage. The battery is dead so I went to push it and it will not move. The hydro lever is in neutral and the brake is not set, it is acting like it is in gear. I know it is a hydro but that is the only why I can describe it. Is there a bypass or something I need to install to get it to move when not running?
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Old 01-15-2015, 12:50 PM
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j4c11 j4c11 is offline
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Should be a lever on the right side of the tractor that you can press to open the relief valves and allow the tractor to be pushed/pulled - in theory, in practice I hear it's tough to move them even with the relief valves open.
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Old 01-15-2015, 01:06 PM
Yosemite Sam Yosemite Sam is offline
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Keep in mind that if you push the valves down and they are sticky/rusty they may not pop back up and you will have to pull the trans-axle out to get them freed up.

Lift one rear tire off the ground and roll it on three wheels until you're ready to possibly remove the trans-axle.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:11 PM
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ford4150 ford4150 is offline
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In the photo there are two unpainted hex head check valve assemblies. The centers pop up. This is what they are taking about. You must push these down to move your tractor. The lever on the side of the tunnel cover should do this, unless it is broken/missing.
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Old 01-15-2015, 02:16 PM
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TheSaturnV TheSaturnV is offline
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^^^^I call it a flapper, basically a thin strip of metal to push the buttons down on top of the manual type valves. The buttons can be stuck or the flapper could be broken or just plain missing.

With the fender pan off, you can reach up under the frame and push the buttons down by force.
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Old 01-15-2015, 05:17 PM
cadzag72 cadzag72 is offline
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Even with them pushed down, the tractor will still be difficult to roll. Make sure not to move it too fast, the hydro units are not meant to move much without the engine running.
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Mine: 72 w/ k301, 3 125's, 1 w/ hydro lift, 38,42, & 2 48 decks, 2 42 front blades, QA-36a & QA-42a thrower, tiller, lo-boy 154. Also, LOTS of parts.
family's:2 105's, 2 106's, 149, 2 lo-boy 154s, Farmall Cub.
Non-IH: 1940 JD Model A, 1954 JD 40 U, 1955 JD 40 Crawler, 2 1956 JD 420 U's, both w/ Henry Loader and Backhoe. JD 110. Wheel Horse (model unknown.) Power King 1614. We love our tractors!
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Old 01-15-2015, 05:33 PM
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mudpatrol1 mudpatrol1 is offline
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easiest way to move a hydro is with the rear wheels off the ground,i use a couple of cheap movers dollies and it works great as long as your on a smooth surface.otherwise i use one of my other machines with a rear lift as a wrecker and tow it into the shop.
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Old 01-15-2015, 06:36 PM
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As far as towing speed/distance I always figure as fast as a toddler walks and about as far, works for me.
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Old 01-15-2015, 08:54 PM
RichardNoggin RichardNoggin is offline
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Thanks. I will try to get it to move tomorrow. I was able to get it started but it would not stay running. Not sure if the battery being as dead as it is, is causing it not to stay running. Not sure what is causing the drain on the battery. Part of the tune up I am also going to redo the wire harness.
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Old 01-15-2015, 09:23 PM
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crossingcrown crossingcrown is offline
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I don't want to steer to far from "RN's" Question.. But, with the auto valves.. can you just push the tractor??
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