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|  Ball joint replacement for 1864 
			
			I recently busted a ball joint on my 1864 and plan on replacing both of them with heim joints (if you're going to do something, do it right). My question is, would anyone happen to have the size or part number (McMaster Carr is where I'm going to order from) for the replacement joints? I'm sure someone out there has replaced theres before, and I don't really want to pay the $40 per joint Cub Cadet wants for them. Thanks guys    
				__________________ -Ryan    | 
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			There has to be at least 7 maybe 10 different types and styles.  Do you want stainless, regular steel, with a grease fitting or without, do you want one with a stud, or do you want to use a bolt?????   The parts book shows the jam nut on the drag link to be 1/2"X20, so your best bet is just to go to McMasters site and pick the style you want.  Plus, I assume you mean the tie rod on the drag link, not the one on the end of the power steering ram.    If you can't figure out which one you need, I can pick one and give you a part number based on what I would use.   | 
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				__________________ -Ryan    | 
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			These guys make some good stuff.  http://www.qa1.net/rod-ends-and-related/rod-ends 
				__________________ 2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL | 
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  And, yes that parts number looks to be correct to me. Quote: 
  Race application though, so you know they are tough!   | 
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				__________________ -Ryan    | 
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			When you order you might want to get the grease washers that go on each ball to keep dirt out and grease in.
		 
				__________________ 1811 Hydro "Failing to prepare is preparing to fail".   | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Why not try the lubrication free for just a little more $11.84? "Lubrication-free linkages have an oil-impregnated bronze insert. Housing is zinc-plated steel. Ball stud is chrome-plated steel." Question: are these that much better than the ones that came on the machine when it was new? Thanks. 
				__________________ Randy Cubs: 71, 72, 127, 149, 1440, 2186 and 1864 John Deere 110 round fender John Deere 140 H3 Sears: GTV16 | 
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			When you grease something, you are doing two things.  1.) lubricating it  2.) pushing out any foreign material.  I.E: water, dirt.  We could have the "grease or not to grease" argument all day.  When I put u-joints in truck, sometime I use greaseable, sometimes I don't.  I can't see that either one lives any longer.  For my stuff, I like to grease.   Yes, those joints are MUCH better than what came on the machine new, and better than the "like style" replacements from either CCC or a place like TSC. | 
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			Thanks Jonathan. Sound like these would be a good upgrade. I also have an 1864 so I'm always looking for threads speaking about 1864s. I have a bunch of others as well but I don't want to put out that kind of money to upgrade all of them, just the ones that get regular use. Thanks for the information everyone. 
				__________________ Randy Cubs: 71, 72, 127, 149, 1440, 2186 and 1864 John Deere 110 round fender John Deere 140 H3 Sears: GTV16 | 
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