Electrical Connector Question

[Lmercer]

Does anybody know where you can get the electrical connectors that 'hook' inside the plastic plug for the ignition switch? How about the plug itself? I've been thinking about making my own wiring harness. There is one on Ebay for $50, but I think I could do it cheaper.

Thanks,
Lyle

[Rhoderman]

Hi Lyle,
A quick google search turned this up:
http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/Auto...Connectors.htm
Lots of information, and hopefully something that will help.
I'd suggest crimp and solder (using type RMA flux) unless you have the high end crimpers. An intermittent connection will drive you crazy, and could also get hot enough to cause a fire.
Good luck!
Jim

ps- it's not a good idea on a forum such as this to post in several sub forums with the same question.

Porch Electric or NAPA.

I have and would do it again as a custom job....but if you are going from scratch you ain't doin it cheaper.

BTW- include #4 wire to your starter and also #4 to the motor from the battery as a ground. Solder all connections including lugs, drill a hole in the top of the lug and fill with solder. I use crimp connectors but I do not crimp, double over wire end inside of crimp and fill with solder.

Grounding your motor is the best electrical upgrade you can do. Ground your frame at the battery also.


Scott

Further-

Don't string is out to an old harness and just start running out wire, mock it up on the tractor. Once mocked up use zip ties to keep it together, pull it back out to wrap and cut ties as you go. Nothing worse that getting it all wrapped just to find out you are 1" short on the starter wire, you will be I promise you, start over.

The first one will take you about 12 hours, did me.

The #4 red @5ft and the #4 black @6Ft and the 8 lugs will run you about $35 just for the upgrade, that includes your battery leads to ground and soleniod.

New harness from Porch may cost about $100 if you just want a standard replacement.

Scott

[Amigatec]

I went with a store bought harness, the wire colors/sizes are correct the ends are correct and the wire were the right length. I gave $90 + shipping for mine.

I would think that unless you are doing a lot of these it would be cheaper to just buy one.

[MBounds]

LMercer... I just bought a batch of those connectors from NAPA!! Not Expensive! They are used in automotive applications also. GM used 'em as well as International. I needed some for my International Scout as well as for Cub Cadet use. Actually, IIRC, the originals probably were Delco-Remy. A good GM dealer may has some also.

Myron B

[Matt G.]

When I restored my 100, I made the wiring harness. All but one wire was the correct, original color, and the materials I bought for about $30 were enough to make at least 2 more wiring harnesses. It is MUCH cheaper to make your own.

[Lmercer]

Thanks everybody!! I appreciate all the good tips.

Matt G, where did you get your connectors? I see your from Illinois, so maybe I'm not too far from the same kind of store you got yours from. I'm in Edelstein.

Thanks again everyone

[Matt G.]

I didn't need any of those connectors for mine, as the 100 uses only screw-on lug terminals. I bought my mesh sleeving from mcmaster-carr (www.mcmaster.com) and I bought the wire and terminal ends from a car parts swap meet. I had to buy the starter lead from NAPA. I think NAPA might have the terminal ends and connectors you are looking for, since they were also used on cars.

[R Bedell]

Since I use "crimp terminals" in my business all the time, I have found and use the following terminals. I have found these to be better than average:

* Panduit
* Thomas & Betts - Sta-Kon Series
* 3M - Highland Series
* Hillsdale Tool & Terminal

These are available in non-insulated or insulated. The insulated ones come with either vinyl, or nylon, partial or fully insulated.

The above can be had at any good Electrical Supply House.