Pilot bearing removal??

[rebel715]

I got my new clutch parts installed, however I believe I would like to change what I did. The original drive plate assembly was one designed like the 800 series tractors used, with the pilot bearing in the center of the assembly pressed into place. My new clutch did not have the pilot bearing, so I ordered the new pilot bearing and pressed it into the new drive plate assembly and then pressed the assembly into the engine. After some thought, I think it would be "smarter" to install the pilot bearing into the engine, but not "through" the drive plate assembly. Is there an easy way to remove the bearing without destroying the new drive plate assembly??
Thanks once again!!!

[sawdustdad]

I made a little slide hammer to remove it for my 1000 project. Probably overkill, it came out easily. The little metal tip fit inside the inner race and moving the weight on the rod, I tapped it out.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by rebel715

I got my new clutch parts installed, however I believe I would like to change what I did. The original drive plate assembly was one designed like the 800 series tractors used, with the pilot bearing in the center of the assembly pressed into place. My new clutch did not have the pilot bearing, so I ordered the new pilot bearing and pressed it into the new drive plate assembly and then pressed the assembly into the engine. After some thought, I think it would be "smarter" to install the pilot bearing into the engine, but not "through" the drive plate assembly. Is there an easy way to remove the bearing without destroying the new drive plate assembly??
Thanks once again!!!

I know what you are talking about, but not what you want to do. The 800 used a completely different set up than any other machine. You can't take the bearing out of the 3 pin driver and install it in the hub unless you change the set-up. What model of tractor are you working on?

[rebel715]

Here's my deal, the tractor is a 1977 1000 wideframe. Kohler K241 10HP single. The original drive plate was like the 800 series with the pilot bearing already pressed into the center of the drive plate. The new drive plate assembly I received was the "flex" style for the quietline series, along with new rubber engine mounts. I first installed the driveplate and new clutch assembly WITHOUT the pilot bearing, and at full speed the driveshaft was all over the place and sounded like a piece of re-bar being fed through a tablesaw!!! Anyway, I realized the driveplate needed a pilot bearing and "should" have compared the new parts to the old parts before installation. I didn't. Anyway, I have ordered the new pilot bearing assembly, but I screwed up and pressed it through the new drive plate assembly and then pressed it into the engine recess. It is working fine, however, I don't think it is together correctly, as I feel the drive plate should be free and separate and not "sandwiched" between the bearing and where the bearing goes into the engine fan where the 4 bolts attach the drive plate. I just want to remove the assembly without destroying the new $120 drive plate assembly, and install things properly.
Thanks.

[sawdustdad]

The pilot bushing fits in the center of the 3 pin flex driver plate. Mine had a flange if I recall, that prevented it from being driven through the flex driver plate. It does not go into the drive cup that is pinned/bolted to the flywheel.

You can see it here in the center of the plate on my 1000.

If you drove it into the drive cup, behind the flex driver plate, then you'll need to remove the driver plate and then remove the pilot bushing from the drive cup and reinstall it in the flex plate. Then bolt that back on the drive cup. Not sure about dimensions, but if the pilot bushing is tight in the drive cup, I'm not sure how you get that out if it's up against the crank shaft.

[Yosemite Sam]

Originally Posted by rebel715

Here's my deal, the tractor is a 1977 1000 wideframe. Kohler K241 10HP single. The original drive plate was like the 800 series with the pilot bearing already pressed into the center of the drive plate. The new drive plate assembly I received was the "flex" style for the quietline series, along with new rubber engine mounts. I first installed the driveplate and new clutch assembly WITHOUT the pilot bearing, and at full speed the driveshaft was all over the place and sounded like a piece of re-bar being fed through a tablesaw!!! Anyway, I realized the driveplate needed a pilot bearing and "should" have compared the new parts to the old parts before installation. I didn't. Anyway, I have ordered the new pilot bearing assembly, but I screwed up and pressed it through the new drive plate assembly and then pressed it into the engine recess. It is working fine, however, I don't think it is together correctly, as I feel the drive plate should be free and separate and not "sandwiched" between the bearing and where the bearing goes into the engine fan where the 4 bolts attach the drive plate. I just want to remove the assembly without destroying the new $120 drive plate assembly, and install things properly.
Thanks.

HERE is the deal, if you in fact have a model 1000 then you have a Quiet Line, not a Wide Frame.

I have no idea what an "800 series" is.

If you have the "flex style 3 pin driver", then you have the correct one for your machine.

I believe you should download a service manual for your machine and put it together as directed by said manual.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by rebel715

Here's my deal, the tractor is a 1977 1000 wideframe. Kohler K241 10HP single. The original drive plate was like the 800 series with the pilot bearing already pressed into the center of the drive plate. The new drive plate assembly I received was the "flex" style for the quietline series, along with new rubber engine mounts. I first installed the driveplate and new clutch assembly WITHOUT the pilot bearing, and at full speed the driveshaft was all over the place and sounded like a piece of re-bar being fed through a tablesaw!!! Anyway, I realized the driveplate needed a pilot bearing and "should" have compared the new parts to the old parts before installation. I didn't. Anyway, I have ordered the new pilot bearing assembly, but I screwed up and pressed it through the new drive plate assembly and then pressed it into the engine recess. It is working fine, however, I don't think it is together correctly, as I feel the drive plate should be free and separate and not "sandwiched" between the bearing and where the bearing goes into the engine fan where the 4 bolts attach the drive plate. I just want to remove the assembly without destroying the new $120 drive plate assembly, and install things properly.
Thanks.

Post a pic. I don't think there is any way you could have done what you say you did.... If so, I think you broke it.

Y-Sam is right about the models. 1000 is a QL, not a WF, and so is an 800. They are exactly the same, just different engines. No "800" series.

[sawdustdad]

Cut the Rebel some slack, guys. Whether a QL is considered a WF is semantics. Looks like a WF to me, too. And "800 series" could simply mean "Model 800" tractors. At least that's the way I assumed he meant it. Worrying about the terminology doesn't help with the problem Rebel715 is having.

Yes, post a picture or two, Rebel, and we'll figure it out.

Now, take a deep breath. Go to your happy place...

[rebel715]

Thanks for the information I will try to enclose some photos as copied from the ihccw site that I ordered the parts from. Yes, my tractor IS a quietline 1000, (10HP), and IH apparently made an 800 (8HP) quietline also. The first photo of the 800 style drive plate is the style my tractor HAD. It had the smaller sized pilot bearing mounted into the center of the drive plate. The new replacement drive plate was like the other photo which needed a larger diameter pilot bearing installed into the flex plate. The third photo is the pilot bearing that I ordered for the drive plate. I pressed the new bearing (flange side AWAY from the engine and towards the steel clutch plates that are pinned to the driveshaft with roll pins. After doing this, the new pilot bearing was seeming as if it was "designed" to be pressed into the flywheel of the engine. That was what I did next so the bearing was pressed into the engine flywheel cup and I could install the 4 bolts for the drive plate. Anyway, that's where I am, but it seems to be working fine in this manner. I am curious if I installed the pilot bearing facing the wrong way. Thanks again!!
800 drive plate.jpg

1000 drive plate.jpg

pilot bearing.jpg

[J-Mech]

You did it right.